Sustainability is one of my favourite subjects to write about, there are so many initiatives to share in the wine world, but not only. I’m taking you to Mauritius again. I’ve written before about where to drink on the island and about vines being planted as part of a biodiversity initiative by the ER Group. The vines are part of a move away from a reliance on sugar cane that includes coffee, cocoa and vanilla plantations in the hills of Chamarel, tucked away in the south of the island, far from the more populated north.

Delicious 

From 6–11 October, in this same unspoiled corner of the island, sustainability was the star of the fourth edition of La Semaine de la Gastronomie Durable. Hosted by The Heritage in Bel Ombre – the only Mauritian resort offering 100% carbon-neutral stays. This week-long Sustainable Gastronomy Competition was created with the sustainable development team at Heritage Resorts, under the watchful eye of visiting chef Jean-François Bérard, Green Michelin Star at the Bastide des Saveurs in Le Var, France.

Competitive Spirit 

The competition pitted four teams from the leading restaurants of the resort against each other: the C Beach Club, the Gin’ja at the Hotel Heritage Telfair, the Infinity Bleu from the Hotel Heritage Awali, and the Château de Bel Ombre at the heart of the estate.

The teams competed across three events: the best lunch, prepared and presented from small mobile kitchens; a cocktail competition; and four gala dinners, in their own restaurants. All the competitors were bound by the theme of sustainability, the expression of Mauritian typicity, an obligation to use certain local produce and to show respect for water – H₂O being the theme of the week. Even in tropical Mauritius, water preservation is becoming more and more important, including the protection of the ocean and its surrounding biodiversity. Highlighting these issues was one of the criteria for deciding the winners.

Jury duty 

I was lucky enough to be on the jury alongside Chef Bérard, Thomas Lehoux, manager of the Chamarel Coffee Plantation, and Thierry Kasprowicz, creator of Le Guide Kaspro from La Réunion, with a guest appearance from Chef Ekkebus, Culinary Director of the Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong.

We were tasked with assessing competitors across several categories – not only how delicious the food was, but also its presentation, both visual and conceptual, and the skill of each team in explaining the idea behind their dishes.
There was moringa, watermelon, seaweed, palm heart, christophine (chayote), Chamarel coffee and lots of seafood on the menus, all served with local beverages, and generous helpings of music and storytelling.

The gala dinners were open to the public, as were round tables and masterclasss with Chef Jean-François Bérard and Chef Richard Ekkebus. As well as highlighting the challenges of climate change and the fragile local environment the event was a chance for the mainly young local teams to experiment, showcase their skills and learn from experts. An opportunity they embraced with a friendly competitive spirit.
At an emotional prize-giving ceremony, the winners received their trophies (made from recycled materials) at a gala dinner created by Chef Bérard and executed by Chef Jean-Philippe Borro and his team at La Réserve.

And the winners were:

• Best Lunch – the Heritage Telfair team under Chef Jean-Paul Arlando René
• Best Commis – Megan Sadien from Heritage Awali

• The jury selected two Coups de Cœur (standouts):
  • The original dessert by Awali chef Ashley Sookah, who interpreted the use of chouchou and coffee with a fun take on dim sum

• A delicious fish soup with ravioli created by Chef Ram at the Château, using only leftover fish bones – very sustainable
• Dinner Trophy – Chef Vedanand Hurry and his team at Gin’ja for an all-singing, all-dancing evening

• Best (and most original) Drinks and Food Pairing – Heritage Awali, created by sommelier Laurent Émile

• Best Cocktail – Mixologist Jean-David Cesaldi from the Cavendish at Telfair for his stunning “L’Ô de Cresson”

• Most Sustainable Menu Trophy – C Beach Club

As well as highlighting the challenges of climate change and the fragile local environment the event was a chance for the mainly young local teams to experiment, showcase their skills and learn from experts. An opportunity they took full advantage of, exercising their creativity but also communication skills – alongside a little healthy in-house competition. It was also a chance to showcase local products and culinary traditions and to show their pride in what Mauritius can offer.
I recommend signing up to join the fifth edition next year. October is the perfect time of year to visit Mauritius.

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