A vineyard with a long and illustrious lineage, a living history with stunning, classical 19th-century architecture that tells the story of the close links between the UK and the Médoc through a shared love of wine and horses.

Château de Malleret is in Le Pian-Médoc, in the south of the Haut-Médoc, the first appellation you reach when you head north out of the city of Bordeaux. The Haut-Médoc is both its own appellation and intimately connected with the six ‘communal’ or village appellations. Each appellation has its own clearly defined geographical delimitation, but many properties of Pauillac, Margaux, Saint-Julien, Saint-Estèphe, Moulis and Listrac also have plots of vines in the Haut-Médoc and make wine under this AOC.

High – low

When you look at the map of the Médoc, the Haut-Médoc is in the bottom two thirds of the peninsula , but it does makes sense – it’s at the top (le haut) of the Gironde Estuary, the big body of water that defines the region. The name has been used since the early 1800s, although the official appellation was only created in 1935. The appellation reaches about 60 km from north to south, with over 4,000 ha of vines, dominated by a series of gravelly outcrops. There are 300 wineries in the Haut-Médoc, each with their own personalities thanks to the diversity of soils across such a large area, but nevertheless with a consistency of style that typifies quality wines from the left bank.

Class act

The appellation has something for everyone: five 1855 classified growths (I profiled Château Cantemerle recently), 17 Crus Artisanaux, 4 cooperatives, and also 53 Crus Bourgeois, of which 5 are Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel — the highest accolade of the 2025 classification — which is where we find our hero of the day, Château de Malleret.

Keeping it in the family

Château de Malleret is a family property, and it’s quite the family, anchored in the region, with links to Great Britain, a traditional Bordeaux trading partner. The Clossmann family were Bordeaux négociants (merchants); Baron Clossmann created Clossmann & Cie in 1770, one of the oldest wine traders on the Quai des Chartrons in Bordeaux. The family bought Château de Malleret in 1859, and it has remained in the family ever since.

Monsieur de Malleret built the first château under Louis XIV in the 17th century, as a gentilhommière, or gentleman’s estate. Just two original buildings remain, but the château we see today dates from the reign of Louis XV. By the time Philippe-Frédéric Clossmann bought the property, we were under Napoleon III, when the region and the Médoc were enjoying a time of prosperity and dynamism, thanks in part to the famous 1855 classification. Working with his brother-in-law, Armand Joseph Ivoy, Clossmann created a stunning park around the property, as was the fashion at the time. Today this arboretum has century-old trees, including cork oaks, Lebanese Cedars and giant Sequoias, supposedly planted from seeds brought back from export trips to San Francisco.

They modernised the agricultural and winemaking facilities, keeping the classical 19th-century Médoc architectural style, using local brick and limestone. It was on point for the time, using the gravity method in the style of Pierre Skawinski, pioneered by the classified growths Pontet-Canet, Mouton, Lynch-Bages and Giscours. So far, so typical of the period – but Clossmann had another passion.

Equine elegance

Thanks to his close ties to the UK, Paul Clossmann was passionate about horses and hunting. In 1835, he created an impressive, now beautifully preserved stable in the “English style”. It became one of the most prestigious studs in Europe, housing up to 15 brood mares that, over the years, bred many racing champions. Today, they concentrate on dressage and are still a reference, thanks to one of the most modern horse spas in Europe.

They continue to pursue these parallel passions for wine and horses. The château belongs to the Oberkampf family, descendants of Clossmann via his niece, the Marquise du Vivier. It was the Marquis who brought the stud the international renown, and it is his grandson, Aymar du Vivier, who represents the family today, working with wine director Paul Bordes.

New vision

Part of the new vision this team has brought to the property is the spectacular new cellar, designed by architect Sylvain Dubuisson in 2017. The 54 concrete vats, in a stunning ochre colour, are a reminder of the original brick, and they allow for plot-by-plot vinification and are, once again, designed for gravity feed. They sit under impressive wooden beams like the hull of an upturned boat, a nod to the family’s history in the port of Bordeaux.

It is beautiful but also environmentally friendly, thanks to passive energy management, with natural wood and cork insulation and heat exchangers that cool the 1,000 barrels in the cellar. This continues the sustainability philosophy in the vineyards, which has seen a reduction in inputs, biocontrol and cover crops, leading to HVE certification.

On the subject of biodiversity, they press and produce olive oil from their own mature trees planted in 2022, and honey from their hives, brought together in a really attractive gift pack.

Still impressive

The property covers 350 hectares, with three plots of vines each about 20 ha, planted on distinct terroirs, including 3.5 ha of appellation Margaux. The vines average 35 years old and are planted at a high density, with 46% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and a touch of Petit Verdot. The remainder of the property is meadows for the horses, 15 ha of oak and pine forest for biodiversity, and, of course, the beautiful park around the château, cellars and stables. Château de Malleret is a Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel – the highest accolade of the classification. The Haut-Médoc château wines have a Médoc typicity: elegant, structured, fresh, with a bright, dark-fruit Cabernet signature.

Cool wine, cool labels, cool corks

So far, so typical – but alongside the Cabernet-driven Haut-Médoc and the Merlot-driven Margaux, there is a white Bordeaux, 100% Sauvignon Blanc aged on its lees in oak, as well as a really delicious light Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot rosé – 50% Petit Verdot, no less! It is sold under the M de Malleret label, which they have recently expanded into Vin de France, with a 100% Merlot blanc de noir white and a light Merlot–Cabernet chillable red.

Cool-fermented, it spends just two weeks on the skins and sees no oak – it’s the perfect summer wine, it says “Red” on the label! Both Vin de France wines are presented in clear, Rhône-shaped bottles with a modern label representing the vines, and a cork that carries the same signature, visible without a capsule – another plus for sustainability.

The second wine, “The Baron de Malleret”, also caught my eye – I love a good label, and this one brilliantly sums up the story of the property, with the Marquise du Vivier riding side-saddle through the forest against a background of Toile de Jouy. Philippe Oberkampf was the founder of the iconic fabric brand Toile de Jouy in the 1700s, with designs inspired by India and England. Those cross-Channel links again.

In March 1787, Louis XVI recognised his contribution to French industry, ennobling him, making him an écuyer, and giving him a coat of arms. In June 1806, Emperor Napoleon visited, taking his Légion d’Honneur from his own lapel and giving it to Oberkampf as a reward for his industrial efforts — especially as they decreased dependence on English textiles!

Come visit

Château de Malleret perfectly illustrates how these Médoc properties tell a story of both quality and consistency over time. Wines you can count on. It is fabulous to see such a storied property honouring its long history while also riding high (sorry couldn’t resist) into the future through innovation. Come and visit with me – Aymar du Vivier is a wonderful host.

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