Move it to the white or move it to the red?

2025 saw the introduction of a new white appellation for the Médoc, a new red Claret ‘mention’ and the arrival on the market of the new Red Entre-deux-Mers?  What’s going on in Bordeaux?  

To the white

With consumer demand moving from powerful red to lighter wines,  Bordeaux is responding with more white, rosé (up to 4%), and lighter reds, all be it within a context of decreasing production across the region. 

The 2025 primeur tastings are upon us and the CIVB has released the latest figures for the vintage. Due in part to last year’s hot, dry conditions, but also the grubbing-up campaign, 2025 produced less than 400 million bottles, from under 5,000 producers on less than 90,000 ha. In reality, the amount under cultivation is probably even lower than this, as some struggling vineyards are being left uncultivated. For those still here, it looks like an excellent vintage. Stay tuned for the critics’ assessment later this month.For you wine geeks out there, I highly recommend Gavin Quinney’s very detailed and excellent crop report of 2025. 

Left to white

In 2025, Bordeaux produced 9% dry white in AOC, but all whites together; dry, sweet and sparkling, reach just over 13%. Whites have a long tradition in Bordeaux, including the Medoc, even if currently they represent less than 2% of production on the peninsula. Now, as of the 2025 vintage, they have their own Médoc Blanc Appellation rather than using the generic Bordeaux Blanc. 

Around 30 producers have dedicated 200 ha to the new AOC, dominated by Sauvignon Blanc and grown on cooler limestone outcrops across the eight Médoc appellations. There are some prestigious names: look out for Château Brane-Cantenac Blanc, Les Griffons de Château Pichon Baron Blanc (100% Sémillon), Chateau Maurac, Anthoinette from Château Castera, (they also make a blanc de noir)  Château Corconnac,  Chateau Lamothe-Bergeron Blanc and the organic Château Peylaby. 

Hard graft 

Producers wanting to respond quickly to increasing demand for white wines are grafting white vines onto existing red rootstock, often with ‘new’ grape varieties. 2025 is the first white vintage from Château Larose Trintaudon, a Chardonnay, Sémillon and Viognier blend grafted onto Merlot rootstock – varieties chosen with rising temperatures in mind. At Château Mauvesin Barton, in Moulis, Mélanie Barton is one of an increasing cohort embracing these non-traditional white varieties, with her first tiny 2025 vintage of a Chenin–Chardonnay blend. As these varieties do not comply with the White Médoc appellation rules, they are labelled Vin de France, although there are rumours these rules might expand to include Chardonnay and Chenin at a future date.

Other properties not waiting for appellation permission are choosing Vin de France to market their more unusual blends. In Margaux, Château Marquis d’Alesme  produces Saam Long, or  ‘three dragons’, referring to the blend of Chardonnay, Albariño and Petit Manseng. Also in Margaux, Château du Tertre recently launched its new white, Alba by Tertre, a Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier blend. Neighbouring Chateau Palmer also produces a small amount of dry white Vin de France from a blend 50% Muscadelle, Loset and Sauvignon Gris. 

Right bank white? 

There’s interest in an official white appellation on the right bank too. A recent vote amongst Saint-Émilion producers went in favour of such a change. There are already some prestigious whites here, such as Le Petit Cheval Blanc from Sauvignon Blanc grafted on the red rootstock of  ex plots of La Tour du Pin Figeac.

This year, Château George 7 in Fronsac is grafting Chenin onto half a hectare of Merlot rootstock adding another white to the Sauvignon driven Château George 7 Blanc. Château Lussac in Lussac-Saint-Émilion already grafted Chenin Blanc onto existing Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot vines; 2025 was the first vintage. Anthony Appollot, who consults for both properties, is convinced Chenin Blanc will thrive on their cooler clay soils, bringing a slow and balanced maturity. 

In the Entre-deux-Mers, the Courselles sisters at Château Thieuley are known for experimentation. They currently have 13 different grape varieties planted across their vineyards. For their latest Vin de France, ‘Sauvage’ (wild in French) they have planted hybrid varieties. The white is Sauvignac (a Sauvignon x Riesling x Vitis hybrid), more resistant to mildew and oidium, which translates into less vineyard intervention and soil compaction. 

The Entre-deux-Mers moves to the red

The Entre-deux-Mers appellation was created in1937, uniquely for white wines. In 2023, it opened up to red. The Entre-deux-Mers region is huge, home to 36,000ha of vines, about one third of Gironde wine production. The majority is red, which until 2023 could only be sold under the Bordeaux or Bordeaux Supérieur appellations. 5,000ha are white vines, also mainly marketed as Bordeaux Blanc. 

A lot of the grubbing-up mentioned above has happened here. Will this new red appellation create dynamism and identity around the appellation? I hope so, but the Entre-deux-Mers AOC still remains a small part of regional production: around 250 producers and 1,500 ha. Understandably, given the stronger recognition of ‘Bordeaux’ brand. The main differentiations for Entre-deux-Mers, red or white, are that it must be a blend and have a longer ageing period.

Whites dominate the appellation, but the red Entre-Deux-Mers will come to market this year thanks to the obligatory 21-month ageing period. For this first red vintage, 41 winemakers (including five co-operatives) produced just over one million bottles from 277 hectares. Over 70% of this production will stay in France, selling between €10-15. 

A few to look out for include Château Lestrille Le Secret, Génération 3 de Château Thieuley and Tour de Bonnet La Courrège, with a label that is very evocative of the Entre-deux-Mers landscape.

Lighten up 

The Entre-deux-Mers is also home to most of the new Claret. Not without its detractors, it is nevertheless an innovation trying to bring dynamism to the sector, showcasing Bordeaux’s fruit-forward red wines, well suited to an ice bucket and the consumer trend for fresh and lively reds. It’s a more positive answer to the red wine crisis than digging up vines. 

As Gavin Quinney shares from Château Bauduc, in the Entre deux Mers: ‘20,000 hectares of vines have disappeared in the last three years. Half have gone from ‘Bordeaux rouge’ – most of it from the Entre Deux Mers’

A Sparkling future?

These latest harvest figures show another response to market demand –  the growth of Crémant de Bordeaux. In 2025, Bordeaux produced over 15 million bottles of white Crémant de Bordeaux. Again, the Entre de Mers is a major supplier.

Moving to the red or moving to the white, change is more of a shuffle than a shift, but it is responding to market demand. Let’s hope this Bordeaux shuffle doesn’t go too low and makes it last.* Then we’ll have something to pop those Crémant corks for. 

*With thanks to the Rolling Stones. 

If you want to know more about what’s going on behind the scenes in Bordeaux do sign up here to be sure not to miss future blog posts. 

Want to experience these changes for yourself? Join me in Sauternes for a weekend of wine and wellness alongside Bordeaux women in wine from 2nd-5th October at Château Sigalas Rabaud.

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