A while ago, I wrote a short piece explaining the difference between Clairet and Claret. Today, I have to revise my classics. This week at Wine Paris, The Bordeaux Wine Council launched their new definition of Claret ,

Until now, Claret has been used as a generic term, mainly in the UK for all Bordeaux reds . Used informally, it is also found on labels of everyday, easy-drinking Bordeaux reds.  As of the 2025 harvest this will change, only wine conforming to a new technical specification will be able to use the name ‘Claret’ on the label.  

Backwards looking

The name Claret likely comes from a historical mispronunciation by the English of the local Clairet – a light red or dark rosé, depending upon your point of reference, still produced today. It’s mainly consumed locally although growing in popularity, surfing on the trend for lighter, chillable reds.

Back to the future

This is not the first time Claret has been reinvented. Up until the 17th century, it’s likely Bordeaux wines were much lighter than what we know as Bordeaux today. The name Claret was well established in the UK by the 17th century, when Château Haut-Brion launched a new style of wine, made using revolutionary techniques, including a longer maceration, topping up, sulphur and ageing in barrels. They called it ‘The New French Claret’ to differentiate it from other lighter ‘Clarets’ on the market. There’s a fascinating article on Jane Anson’s Website about the origins of the Claret for the history and wine-chemistry buffs.

Forward looking 

Why change? Consumer demand is changing, trending towards lighter, brighter wines, higher acidity and easy-drinking appeal. Research shows Bordeaux is all too often associated with snobbery, perceived as inaccessible for wine amateurs and off-putting to budding wine enthusiasts and casual drinkers.

The New Claret ‘denomination’ is ‘designed’ to be enjoyed chilled – light, fruity, fun and easy drinking. But is it Bordeaux?  Yes, it is, but perhaps not as many perceive it. The Bordeaux blend is famous worldwide, a reference for wines made in regions from California to Australia and beyond. These wines have an image of elegant, complex often oaked – delicious for a dinner or lunch – but easy drinking? Not really, and this is the opinion not only of consumers but of many professionals.   

Think again.

There are many light, fruity red wines already produced in Bordeaux. The ‘basic’ Red Bordeaux AOC can be bottled and sold  as of  the 15 January in the year following the harvest – so there’s no obligation at all to barrel-age, in fact to age at all. I‘ve lived in the Entre-deux-Mers for over 30 years, home of lots of these delicious, light, fruit-driven red Bordeaux wines that are no stranger to the fridge in our house during the summer 

This new definition of Claret creates a clear identity for this red wine style that appeals to a more casual drinker, perhaps intimidated by the name Bordeaux. It responds to consumer trends that are moving away from structured wines served with meat-based meals to more casual drinking occasions such as aperitifs, picnics, tapas and vegetarian dishes.

Technically  

The new Claret is a ‘mention’ within the Bordeaux appellation introduced as of the 2025 vintage.  Some 16,500hl were declared by 40 producers for this first vintage; there should be around one million bottles on the market for summer, rising up to two million by the end of the year.

Made from the  traditional Bordeaux  grape red varieties, the defining characteristics are: no strong tannins, (limited to a 209-55 IPT Polyphenol index) no oak, light colour intensity (3 to 15 ICM) and a maximum 7g/l residual sugar – which is not that dry, but takes advantage of legislation introduced in November allowing AOCs to sweeten their wine (with must of the same appellation) to bring residual sugar as high as 9 grams per litre, This has met with mixed reception from wine makers. Is making sweeter wines the way to attract a younger consumer? 

The wines are designed to be served chilled, at 10-12°C rather than traditional room temperature (16-18°C). In France, the price point should be around €8-12 per bottle retail and €20-25 on-trade. Claret is being promoted as ideal for restaurants and bars to offer by the glass, to be drunk young within one or two years of bottling 

Will it work?
Merlot dominates Bordeaux red plantings, and it lends itself really well to these lighter, fruit-forward wines. Currently, these delicious wines are flying under the radar. Winemakers are looking for ways to promote and share them, but it’s a message that is hard to get across – this may help – I hope so.  The wines are delicious.

Reactionary 

Reaction across the UK and Bordeaux trade I’ve spoken to has been mixed, with a generational split. The Claret marketing team at the Bordeaux Wine Council believe that even in traditional Great Britain, most people have no idea what Claret means, or, if they do, they’re part of an older generation. They could be right.  At Tanners, whose house  Claret made by Maison Sichel has been a best seller for over 50 years, reactions are mixed. There’s surprise ’why would you take such a ubiquitous name and turn it into something else?’ but the Cellars Shop Manager Erica Littley, confirms that the word is dying out in common usage, especially for customers 40 or younger, ‘they rarely know what the word means and certainly don’t use it’. 

Boomer Claret drinkers (and sellers) have expressed, if not horror, then some confusion. Everyday Claret is a staple of many dinner and Sunday lunch tables. Berry Brothers and Rudd’s iconic‘Good Ordinary Claret’ produced by Dourthe, is described as their ‘flagship red Bordeaux, a wine which embodies the spirit of Berry Bros. & Rudd’. 

But it seems boomers are no longer drinking enough and have a limited longevity (ahem). The  new Claret is aimed at seducing a younger clientele. Will they drink more? Who knows – but they do drink differently, and this stye of wine is very seductive.

Boomers beware, if you reach for your traditional Claret label, as of the 2025 vintage it will not taste the same. Producers and bottlers will no longer be able to put ‘Claret’ on their labels unless the wine adheres to the technical specification above; they will either have to change the style of wine or change the name on the label. 

Trade up 

Is there is a risk of alienating this niche market? There is no shortage of affordable Bordeaux alternatives, the quality of Bordeaux has never been more consistent. If you prefer an ‘affordable’ classic Bordeaux, reach for a Bordeaux Supérieur, a Côtes de Bordeaux, or even the new red Entre-deux-Mers appellation.

Bordeaux producers also differ in their opinions. Everyone agrees that lighter Bordeaux reds are delicious and should be promoted, but not everyone agrees that Claret is the right word. Some would prefer to see a greater push behind Clairet, a product that already serves this market segment beautifully.  At Château Lestrille Estelle Roumage sees increasing sales of her Clairet as a “chillable red”. Clairet also has the advantage of being exclusive to Bordeaux. It’s an opinion shared by the Courselle sisters at Château Thieuley who are concerned about the confusion with ‘Clairet’. Is another category between, red and Clairet making the Bordeaux offer even more complex?  Like many in the region, they already produce lighter “juicy” reds but label them as Vin de France  (VDF) to differentiate them from a more classic Bordeaux profile. Look out for their Champelés de Thieuley, a Vin de France, as the blend contains 30% Syrah alongside the more classic Merlot and Cabernet Franc. 

Time for a refresh

The project is brand new; information is still relatively limited, and it will take time for the supply chain to adjust. Traditional Claret lovers, don’t despair – there’s no need for panic buying or stockpiling. Traditional Claret is not going anywhere soon. Time is on the trade’s side. One of Bordeaux’s advantages is its ability to age. The Claret currently on shelves is mainly the 2022 or 2023 vintage. It will be a while until the 2025 comes online and suppliers are obliged to change. Watch this space.

It will take a little adjusting, change always does. Allan Sichel, president of the Bordeaux Wine Council, and managing Director of Maison Sichel agrees ‘it’s a disturbing evolution in the short term for the UK market but I am convinced this will actually be beneficial for Bordeaux. It will be fascinating to see how this develops over the coming months. I wish them luck, the wines are delicious regardless of what you want to call them. A Rosé by any other name? 

Some new Clarets to try

Most of the wines below are from the Entre-deux-Mers, a region already producing lighter, Merlot-driven, easy-drinking wines. These producers are already embracing the diversity of the region, offering red, white, rosé, Crémant, and Clairet. Many are organic and all have sustainable certification. These Clarets are not all completely new products, but producers are presenting them in a new style, often using a Rhône-shaped bottle rather than the classic Bordeaux high-shouldered bottle, accentuating their difference. You’ll see from the names that these wines are not taking themselves too seriously. Nor should the consumer.

• Papa et Tonton by Château Lauduc (Entre-deux-Mers): made by a father-and-daughter team, a modern light wine with the objective of offering a ‘pure pleasure wine’.
• Château Léotins Claret from Vignobles Lumeau (Entre-deux-Mers).
• Claretttt from Château Sainte-Barbe, an addition to an already eclectic range, including many 100% Merlots designed for early and chilled drinking.
• Esprit Léger from Vignobles Gabard.
• Le Blanc Bec from Château de Fontenille, a reliable source of delicious and affordable Entre-deux-Mers wines.
• Les Roches Blanches Claret from Château Roquefort, a 100% Merlot highlighting the underlying limestone terroir that brings characteristic freshness to the wine.

• Thank You Charles from Château Saint-Ferdinand in Lussac, also 100% Merlot — a tongue-in-cheek reference to King Charles III, who tasted their wine during his visit to Bordeaux in 2023.
• Wine Not? from Château Joumes Fillon, part of Vignobles Raymond, known for its organic, affordable wines.
• “l’Infusé” from Château Penin made from old Merlot vines, picked early for maximum freshness with less than 0.5g of residual sugar and presented in a Rhone bottle with a ‘juicy’ label.

Unsurprisingly, the co-operatives in the Entre deux Mers have embraced the new category. Stéphane Héraud, President of Vignerons de TUTIAC believes their Bordeaux Claret, Rouge Frais is a way for their members, to showcase Bordeaux differently, drawing on history whilst looking toward the future’. Also look out for Zephyr Signature  from Bordeaux Families and Claret de Lune from La Cave de Rauzan.

Until you can get your hands on some, don’t forget Clairet, many of the producers above also producing Clairet. A few other tried-and-tested favourites are Château Lestrille, Château Thieulley and the dark Rosé from Château Bauduc. 

For UK based boomer readers, here are a few traditional Clarets to try while you still can:  

• Corney & Barrow Claret, bottled by Sichel
• Marks & Spencer M&S Classics Claret
• Tanners (also bottled by Sichel)
• Berry Bros. & Rudd ‘Good Ordinary Claret’, produced by Dourthe — their ‘flagship red Bordeaux’ Or splash out on their Extra Ordinary Claret

Look out and share

The new Claret should be on the shelves in time for warmer days. If you get your hands on one, I’d love your feedback. Please share you thoughts in the comments below. In the meantime, share this with friends and colleagues keen to learn more about what’s new in Bordeaux.

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