When I started teaching about Bordeaux wines, one of the first things instilled into me was the importance of the Landes forest in the geography of the region. It covers about one million hectares, around 2% of the whole of France‘s surface area. It is the largest planted forest in Europe stretching across three ‘départements’ (Landes, Gironde and Lot-et-Garonne). Running along the west coast, it protects the left bank vineyards of Bordeaux from weather coming in from the ocean, creating its own microclimate. 

Its effect is notable: after the storms of 1999 (and again in 2009) winemakers in the Médoc commented on how they could feel a difference in the winds after large tracts of forest were destroyed. I remember seeing piles of logs stacked up along the side of the roads as I drove through the forest. Today after the shocking recent fires, it’s a very different and even more devastating vision. 

This is a story about the forest, its regional importance but also inescapably about the vineyards it protects – or threatens, what the future holds and how both of these important regional agricultural areas are adapting. With climate change, this proximity of the forest is even more important, these ‘lungs’ of the region contribute to a cooler micro-climate for nearby vineyards and encourage biodiversity. The adoption of agro-forestry in the vineyards, with hedge and tree planting across wine estates shows an awareness of the importance of woodland for the environmental health of the region and an attempt to create shade and  cooler localised micro climates. 

This symbiosis of forest and vineyard, has been brought starkly into focus after the catastrophic fires in the region over the last weeks. Fortunately, the vineyards have been spared, but not the forest.  This was France’s largest wildfire since 1949, around 42,000 hectares of trees have been destroyed to the west of the city of Bordeaux, mainly around Arcachon Bay, and Le Porge. Further south, 3,500–3,600 hectares burned near Biscarrosse. This feels particularly poignant given that only a few weeks ago I was on a boat in the Bay sharing with guests the views of beautiful waterfront homes and oyster shacks on the Cap Feret peninsula. 

The fires now seem under control, the 220,000 residents and holidaymakers evacuated have now been allowed back to their homes, although over 240 no longer have homes to go back to. 

Historic

The Landes is not a ‘natural’ forest but it is historic. Planting was planned by Napoleon III in 1857, just two years after he instigated the 1855 classification of the wines of  Médoc, Graves and Sauternes. The objective was to stabilise the sand of the Atlantic coast and stop it encroaching inland. From the tip of the Médoc peninsula all the way down to Spain, the Atlantic coast is one long, beautiful sandy beach – spectacular but unstable. 

Planting the forest was a continuation of the monumental 17^th century project that transformed the marshy estuary side of the peninsula into usable farm land, thanks to the engineering prowess of the Dutch. It also revealed the gravel outcrops that make up the prestigious vineyards of the Médoc we know today. Ancient maps clearly show islands of slightly higher gravel surrounded by tidal water before these engineering works created dams and polders. The original drainage ditches that evacuated the water using the tidal movement of the estuary are still visible today.

Le Pin et le Vin 

Arriving in Bordeaux in the 80s I was told the wealth of the region came from Vin et Pin, (I thought bread and wine had a certain French ring to it – but not pain as in bread, but pin as in pine – the pronunciation is the same). There was an established aristocracy (I use the word advisedly given the ownership then) of the vine and of the pine. The forest remains 90% privately owned with the national ‘Office National des Forêts’ managing  just 65,000 ha.

The forest is an important managed natural resource. About 10,000 ha of trees are harvested every year and the forest sector alone employs around 6,000 permanent employees. Harvested wood is destined for paper pulp, furniture, construction and, of course, wooden cases for wine shipping – although more, lighter cardboard is used today, reducing the transport carbon footprint. Nevertheless, it is made of paper pulp (albeit more often recycled).

Wood and paper remains a key regional industry alongside aerospace (6 billion euros) (source Invest in Bordeaux) wine and spirits (4 billion) with wood products close to 10 billion. The sector including woodland management, paper, distribution research and education employs over 50,000 people in Aquitaine (source l’Insee and Fibois Nouvelle-Aquitaine). 

Tourism 

It is also important for tourism; tens of millions of tourists visit the region annually representing about 9% of regional GDP. The forest attracts a huge seasonal influx to the campsites dotted along the coastline as well as the more upmarket resorts of Cap Feret, Arcachon, Pyla, Lacanau and more. Many of those evacuated were holiday makers. The fires have been a huge blow to the local tourism economy.

Naturally active 

The Landes forest is part of the Réseau Natura 2000, the largest coordinated network of protected natural areas in the world, covering about 18% of the EU’s land area and 10% of its marine waters. The objective of Natura is to safeguard rare and threatened species and habitats. Unlike some eco-philosophies and practices that want to eliminate humans from nature reserves, it allows and encourages sustainable human activities like farming, forestry and tourism – as long as they don’t harm local wildlife. 

Pine resin 

Wood hasn’t always been the main source of income from the forest. From the middle ages until the 1990s this pine forest supported a local ‘resineaux’ industry. ‘Resiniers’ used the process of ‘gemmage’ or tree tapping to extract resin from pine trees. When purified, this resin is transformed or distilled into highly inflammable turpentine, used for solvents, paints, disinfectants, expectorants and fuel. The rosin solids were used in industry and road surfacing. By the 1970s, 18,000 people were employed in the production of resin, harvesting 178,000 tonnes pa. This industry collapsed in the 1990s due to cheaper chemical alternatives and international competition and the emphasis shifted from resin to uniquely timber and paper production. 

Monoculture

The forest is dominated by fast-growing, maritime pine trees, (approx. 85%) with some poplars (fast-growing and adapted to wetter soils) and common oak. These resinous, easily inflammable pines are planted with minimal spacing, on those dry, sandy soils with little or no water retention. In a wet spring, (like this year) undergrowth quickly grows across the surface, and just as quickly dries out in the hot weather, becoming an enormous tinder box. These resin filled trees quickly spread fire.

Renewal, revival and a rethink?

With climate change increasing the risk of fire, forestry experts are questioning the monocropping of these inflammable trees and the minimal spacing between them. It’s not only the trees of course but how they are managed. Traditional ‘gemmage’ meant a presence of people in the forest, workers that maintained, cleared and surveyed the forest floor. No longer. Today, a laudable desire to maintain an eco-friendlier forest encourages leaving undergrowth and deadwood for biodiversity, it reduces maintenance. In a year like this, it created perfect conditions for a spark to catch. With these hotter dried summers and wetter winters, there are lessons to be learnt around fire barriers, forest floor maintenance, with interrogations around the role of traditional and of new eco-practices and density of planting.

France and the Landes are not alone in asking these questions, extreme fire is a global problem. An International Conference on Forest Fire Research is bringing together global experts this November in Portugal .  The terrible fires Portugal suffered in 2017 led to changes in forest management away from industrial monoculture plantings of their own inflammable eucalyptus trees, to more native oaks and chestnuts. Low inflammable species can act as fire breaks – as, so it happens can vines! 

Bordeaux Vineyards – leading by example

It brings into focus the efforts and investments wineries are making to combat and adapt to climate change. Both agricultural landscapes face the same underlying question – how much monoculture can an ecosystem tolerate before it becomes fragile?  Vineyards are also monoculture but they are experimenting for resilience. Bordeaux traditionally blends, planting different varieties. Now we’re seeing  species more resistant to drought and to disease both, new hybrids and ancient grapes. Viticultural techniques are also adapting, with agro-forestry, planting density and cover crops. 75% of Bordeaux vineyards are now under some eco-certification. They are leading the way – perhaps an example for the forestry industry to follow?

Properties are also playing the longer game of combatting climate change, reducing their carbon footprint from packaging, bottle weight, winery design and water use – including irrigation. 

Diversification

In 2010, BioGemme in Biscarrosse started harvesting turpentine again, using organic activators and working with Biolandes to distill the resin and rosin solids into essential oil for medical and wellbeing markets. It’s still tiny but people working in the forest act as watchers for fire risk, they are present at the critical time from June to October when the sap is rising. It’s also a small but additional income from the forest. Trials by the ‘Office National des forêts’ and the  University of Pau are ongoing.

There are other products from pine trees too. If you stay in the region you will surely be served a ‘Salade Landaise’, a few salad leaves with plenty of duck, liberally sprinkled with pine nuts. Océopin extracts essential oils from these pine nuts to create a range of local, natural cosmetics.

What about the wines and vines? 

Despite all the catastrophising by journalists about smoke taint (many who should know better) the vines have been spared: most are a long way from the fires and even the closest have not been affected – although it was a stressful few days. The deep roots of vines with their access to water supply make them less susceptible to fire. The 2026 vintage is safe, for the moment and thanks to those spring rains and deep roots, mainly still green although with heat waves coming through some are looking a little sun burnt. It’s still early days but in theory nothing a good selection table can’t solve. Yields are likely to be low and harvest early.

Open for business 

What has been affected is tourism thanks to the terrifying visuals across the TV screens of the world. The coast, that relies on July and August visitors to finance their year has been the hardest hit, but there are repercussions across the region; reinforced by a local politician telling people to stay away and rumours of the airport shutting down. As if we didn’t have enough problems.

Wine tourism is one way vineyards are combatting a global downturn in wine demand. Vineyards and associations are disappointed that outside cultural and sports events have been cancelled until 8^th August as a precautionary measure although châteaux remain open for visits, tastings and those all-important sales.   

Wines tourism has become an important marketing tool for the region and its wines as well as a welcome source of income. It’s a brilliant way to show and share what wine making is all about, creating and increasing enthusiasm, knowledge and engagement from the public.

Pulling together 

Wine makers have shared the amazing messages and solidarity from worried wine enthusiasts, clients and friends across the world. In turn the vineyards nearest to the fires also lent a hand to fire fighters. There are many images of farmers backing up fire-fighters with their trailers and water tanks. 

If you would like to see more, accurate details about the fires, I recommend the Château Bauduc Newsletter by Gavin Quinney. There are images, maps and lots of useful information.

Hopefully by now, you have seen the many posts and communications from producers sharing that yes, Bordeaux is open for business, yes, it is safe. The wines and vines and wine makers are very fortunately still here and healthy and ready to welcome you. 

As for the Landes forest, clearing up and replanting will be a long challenge and it may change the landscape. Aquitaine is resilient and so are the winemakers, if you want to support them, come visit. If you can’t visit buy some wine and raise a glass in solidarity.

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