French appellations laws are strict and although they guarantee a signature style and assure a certain quality, do they also stifle creativity?

With questions around climate change, the idea of introducing different varietals into the Bordeaux Blend is a regular question. Despite fears of global warming, planting figures in the region show an increase in Merlot, an early ripening varietal, over the later developing Cabernets in recent years. At the same time Petit Verdot, which sometimes struggles to attain perfect ripeness in Bordeaux, seems to be on the increase in blends on the left bank. There is more to these planting decisions that just climate fears.

Despite the appellations laws limiting the varietals planted, it’s not impossible to find some rogue plantings here and there. Emblematic of the experimentation that characterises all wine makers, even those in Bordeaux!

Wines from non-permitted varietals can’t be bottled as Bordeaux of course but the recent change of name of these wines from Vin de Table to Vin de France somehow makes them sound a little more exciting.

Chateau Theuiley is at the very heart of the Entre Deux Mers. 10 years ago the Courselle sisters, Sylvie and Marie, whose family have owned the property for over a century, took the step of planting both Chardonnay and Syrah in the vineyard, neither of which are permitted Bordeaux varietals. They chose a clay and limestone plot, not dissimilar to some of the best in Saint Emilion, a plot not included in the appellation when it was defined in 1936. It is possible to apply to the appellation authorities (INAO) to get land re classified, which they did. They knew approval would be a long time coming so they threw caution to the wind and experimented with varietals that they had enjoyed working with abroad.
As Vin de France, the wines cannot be bottled under the Chateau name, used for their range of red, white rosé and sparkling Bordeaux wines so they are named them Les Truffieres, from a nearby plot planted with truffle oaks.

Only 13 000 bottles of these single varietal wines are produced from 1.5 ha of Chardonnay and 1.5ha of Syrah. After 10 years they have just received the authorisation for the plot to enter into the Bordeaux appellation. Given the quality and success of Les Truffières I don’t think they’ll be in a rush to uproot and replant with the more traditional Bordeaux grapes.

The Entre deux Mers remains for me one of the most overlooked regions of Bordeaux; it’s big and varied and some properties have ‘terroir’ that can rival in best in Bordeaux. Despite this and sadly for the wine growers, the market limits the price point that the wines attain, even those with an international renown such as Reignac who proudly uses the tag line Grand cru non-classé. So it is perhaps unsurprising that it is an area where unusual initiatives are found.

All wine makers love to experiment, even higher up the hierarchy including the Medoc. I’ve mentioned the historical role of Syrah in Bordeaux and its use the in odd blend in the Medoc before – but these are from imported Syrah not locally grown. Look hard enough and you’ll find some unusually home-grown blends too.

Chateau du Tertre in Margaux has just released its second vintage of Blanc du Tertre. Producing a white in a famous red appellation could be considered a bold move but many chateaux do so with the likes of Pavillon Blanc at Margaux, L’Aile d’Argent from Mouton and les Arums de Lagrange (one of my favourite Medoc whites) to name a few. This is not a new trend, many producers always made a little white for house pour and inspired by the consistent quality of whites now coming out of Bordeaux from the traditional white regions of Graves and Entre Deux Mers, it is hardly surprising that there has been a regain of enthusiasm in the Medoc.

These wines are produced under the Bordeaux Blanc appellation, the Medoc appellations only apply to wines made from red varietals. However Le Tertre has also experimented with less traditional varietals continuing the Bordeaux tradition of blending but using Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier 
and Gros Manseng, 
inspired by their experience in Italy at their property Caiarossa. They produce just 6000 bottles from under 2ha of vines.

Margaux is no stranger to white experiments; Chateau Palmer also produces a small amount of dry white. Again with a historical origin, old bottles found at the property suggest that a small amount of white wine was produced there in the early 1900s. Palmer revived the tradition with a tiny production in 2007 with a blend of 50% Muscadelle, 35% Loset and 15% Sauvignon Gris. It’s hard to find but worth the search. Again due to the Loset, it’s a Vin de France and its simple label shows the philosophy behind the wine. Bordeaux can be at once adventurous, experimental and unpretentious.