Sauternes surprises. Two things you might not expect to find in Sauternes and Barsac.

Wine and Whisky.

There’s nothing new about finishing a whisky in an oak cask, using different provenances, sherry, port and yes, even Bordeaux. I’m particularly fond of a Sauternes finish. Glenmorangie Nectar d’Or was the first one I tasted, it is still delicious. The group LVMH owns both Glenmorangie and Château d’Yquem, which must come in handy when sourcing barrels. 
I also love Glenfiddich and was in Scotland for the unveiling of a Cérons finish whisky, using barrels from Château de Seuil. 

There’s about to be a new one on the block, a joint venture between a sweet wine producer from a nearby hill overlooking the river and an island whisky distillery. I’m sworn to secrecy for the moment but watch this space. 

But Gin?

Barrel aged gin is rare but can be found, (there’s a particularly delicious Bordeaux barrel aged negroni), but now there is a Sauternes finished gin, or Barsac to be precise. 

Château Climens and Salcombe Gin have joined forces to create Phantom. The name was inspired by a ghostly vision of the Chateau emerging from the famous morning mist on the first visit of Angus Lugsdin, to Château Climens. 

Angus is the creator of Salcombe Gin, from the Devon Coast in the South of England. Phantom is also the name of a 19th century boat that shipped botanicals for the gins to the port town of Salcombe. 

Photo credit Ferderic Nivelle, cellar master at Château Climens, clearly a man of many talents!

The gin is the sixth in the limited edition ‘Voyager series’, a range inspired and crafted by chefs and wine personalities.

The uniqueness of this gin comes not only from ageing in Château Climens barrels that previous held the sweet wines of the property, but also from the botanicals used during distillation. Seven of the 16 botanicals used are from the vineyard. Owner wine maker Bérénice Lurton is passionate about the biodiversity of her estate. A biodynamic producer, she sources locally grown herbs to create her vine treatments. These herbs are dried in an attic above the fermentation cellar, which is also a venue for wine and yoga classes. 

Botanicals drying in La tisannerie of Château Climens. Photo credit Ferderic Nivelle

From these herbs, Bérénice and Angus along with cellar master Frédéric Nivelle, selected marigold flowers, fennel, nettle, cypress and laurel, and, after several trials added rose petals from the Chateau. Once distilled, the gin was aged for eight months in five barrels (or casks once we start talking about spirits) that previously held the 2015 or the 2016 vintages. 

Sadly I haven’t tasted it yet – but I’ll have a bottle waiting for me when I get back to Europe – I’ll let you know, but the finished gin is described (and I quote) as having: 

‘a decadent cask finish, mimicking the aromas and flavours of the wine: honeyed peaches, rose petals, cypress, lavender and orange blossom on the nose. Notes of apricots, jasmine, toasted oak, spices and caramelised orange peel follow on the palate. There is a fresh green savoury hint from the nettle and fennel making it light but enhancing the depth of flavour. The finish is acacia honey and cantaloupe melon, balanced with the minerality of fresh orange peel pith’. 

Serve Phantom with organe peel and tonic to bring out the citrus flavours the Climens barrels bring. Photo credit Ferderic Nivelle

They suggest serving it with orange peel and tonic, which makes sense given the citrus aromas of Climens – my mouth is watering. 

The elegant Phantom packaging.

The limited edition of 3,500 50 cl bottles are presented in an embossed white bottle with a copper stopper and packed in a matching white and copper box. It is almost Christmas. 

Or Coffee?

If you thought Gin and Barsac was an interesting pairing, what about Sauternes and coffee?  

Château Sigalas Rabaud, first growth of Sauternes, has been in the same family since 1863. The current owner wine maker, Laure de Lambert, is the sixth generation of the family at the helm. She’s not letting tradition stand in the way of innovation. 

The barrel cellar of Château Sigalas Rabaud, where the ageing of the coffee beans took place.

Alongside Simon Verger from the hotel and two Michelin star restaurant Haaitza in nearby Pyla and coffee specialist Yoann Bride from the Brûlerie Comtoise in the Jura, they have launched a unique project. It was a meeting of minds.

They have been experimenting since January, ageing raw coffee beans in barrels that previously held the classified growth Sauternes. 

From wine labels to
coffee labels – look familiar?

They left the green beans for eight, nine and ten weeks, rolling the barrels regularly to impregnate the grains with the floral and citrus notes characteristic of the ‘grand vin’. Finally they chose nine weeks as the ideal ageing period, then roasting it. The coffee is now for sale at the Brûlerie Comtoise but will be available at the Château too. They might even serve it at breakfast if you stay in one of their lovely guests rooms.

The terrace at Château Sigalas Rabaud in Sauternes

I can recommend sipping a coffee on the beautiful terrace of the property, overlooking the vines after tasting their wines.

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