Château de Cerons is a unique property. It’s fitting then that they have produced a unique wine, a release I hinted at, a few months ago. 

Niche . Their wines were already niche. Cérons is the smallest appellation in Bordeaux, with only 7 producers on 30 ha, although not all of this is dedicated to producing this sweet wine. As it is so climate sensitive, the harvest varies dramatically from vintage to vintage. It is difficult and laborious to harvest, to produce and to sell. Which I find shocking, as it is one of the best value wines in Bordeaux. 

Cerons or Ciron?  Cerons is just North of Barsac along the Garonne River, gaining its own appellation in 1936. The name comes from the Ciron River that runs through Sauternes and Barsac. It used to run right through Cerons before it shifted over time to fall into the Garonne River at Barsac. 

It is this small, fast running, cool brook that is responsible for the microclimate in this south-western corner of Bordeaux. The thermal shock as it runs into the Garonne, gives rise to morning mists that in turn encourage the development of Botrytis Cinera or noble rot producing the fabulous Golden wines of Sauternes, Barsac and yes Cerons, as well as the right bank appellations of Loupiac, Cadillac and Saint Croix du Mont.  

Building on history.

Château de Cerons was built in the 17th century, on a limestone terrace overlooking the Garonne River by the Marquis de Calvimont, whose name adorns a range of Graves wines from the property. 

The property remains suspended in time, this is not a wealthy appellation and investment has been prioritised in the vines and the cellars rather than the house. The result being nothing has been spoilt. As you enter the main entrance you are walking on the same flagstones that the Marquis would have walked on. In the 1950s, Roger Henri Expert restored the beautiful original plasterwork. An architect and decorator, he spent a lot of time here at his sister’s property drawing inspiration for many of his creations, including the fountains of the Jardins du Trocadéro in Paris. Alongside this elegance, the wine cellar is one of the oldest in Bordeaux, the earth floors keeping the humidity needed for the 24-36 months barrel ageing of the Cérons wines. 

Caroline and Xavier Peyromat took over the family estate in 2012. Their respect for the family heritage is palpable; they are slowly bringing this listed historic monument back to its former 17th century glory. These details are why Château de Cérons is a star of our wine and design tour.

The wines. 

Of the 30 hectares of vines at Château de Cérons, just five are dedicated to producing Cérons AOC. The village is within the Graves region, allowing them to make red and white wines under the Graves appellation, unlike neighbouring Barsac and Sauternes who must use Bordeaux for anything other than sweet production – more of which in a future post. 

Despite their respect of tradition, they are no strangers to innovation. In 2014 they introduced La Quille. Quille means skittle (as in bowling), a local slang word for a bottle of wine. They thought this rather disrespectful term would be a fun name for their entry-level range of Graves red, white and Bordeaux rosé and it has been successful both at home and abroad particularly in the US. 

Citrus and orange notes 

As they prepared for the 2020 harvest, the Perromats and the château oenologist, Julien Belle, came up with the idea of an orange wine. Perhaps lockdown meant time for reflection and innovation? There has to be some silver linings. 

They wanted to take a new look at the possibilities of their terroir. The team already has experience in dry white, sweet white, red and rosé wine making, so why not another colour?

Rather than the Sémillon that dominates the blend of the Cerons, Coucher du Soleil is a blend of 50% Sauvignon Blanc and 50% Sauvignon Gris. The grapes are harvested at dawn, to preserve the aromas and the freshness of carefully selected plots of 25 year-old vines. The white grapes are fermented like a red; fermenting on the skins for 5 weeks, with daily punching down. Unlike many orange wines, they were keen to protect the wine from oxidation, vinifying and ageing for a short time in stainless steel to protect the signature freshness, minerality and aromas of that Cérons limestone terroir. 

It is a gorgeous colour, not a typical orange wine, thanks to the lack of oxidation, but yellow with orange hints. It has the signature citrus nose of Sauvignon with an elegant touch of bitter orange and a long finish that gives it that important food friendly flexibility. 

Coucher de Soleil it’s the perfect illustration that diversification and innovation can work hand in hand with heritage and history. The wine is in limited production, just 900 bottles in 2020 and destined for sale in mainly independent wine shops, on their on line store and French restaurants (when they open again!) where chefs are starting to have fun with wine and food matching. It world really well with lightly spiced food and Asian cuisine, great with hard aged cheeses such as Mimolette and Comté. The Perromats are drinking it as an apéritif on it’s own at sunset.

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