I’m back in Bordeaux as promised but via the roundabout route of South Africa. Not physically but in a wine glass. Just before leaving Mauritius, I met Carla Malherbe, another dynamic woman in wine, global sales and marketing manager for Rupert and Rothschild. Tasting with Carla  was the perfect way to move from the Southern wine hemisphere back to the Northern. 

Bordeaux spreads itself across the world. I’ve shared the links between Bordeaux and California at length (more to come) and also mentioned links between Bordeaux and South Africa way back when I was last there – much too long ago. Thanks Carla, for the updated invite. 

I’ve tasted Rupert and Rothschild wines before, but this was an opportunity to get behind the story, and the wines, born from a partnership of two major wine (and luxury) families. The Rothschilds are a large and well connected family with links across the world. The five arrows on the family crest represent the five siblings that spread across Europe as early as the 18^thcentury and they are known for their joint wine ventures from South America to Napa.

Bordeaux Rothschild

There are two branches of the Rothschild family in Bordeaux. The Lafite Rothschilds, are the French branch of the family and the Mouton Rothschilds the British branch, both based at their world renown first growth vineyards in Pauillac. Edmond de Rothschild was the great grandson of James de Rothschild, who purchased Lafite in 1868. Just over 100 years later, in 1973, Edmond invested in Château Clarke and Château Malmaison in the more discreet Médoc appellations of Listrac and Moulis. Now grouped under the umbrella of Edmond de Rothschild Heritage his is arguably the most interesting of the families wine holdings, it’s certainly diverse. They own other properties in Medoc, on the right bank of Bordeaux, the south of France, New Zealand, Mendoza and in a joint venture with Lafite and Mouton make Champagne, I’ve probably missed some. Near Champagne they own the only farm to produce AOP farmhouse Brie de Meaux. I recommend the one stuffed with truffles it’s divine.

At the end of last year they merged their in-house UK distributor Waddesdon Wine, with esteemed London Merchant Goedhuis making the complete range of Rothschild wines, including Rupert and Rothschild, available on the UK market. Edmond de Rothschild heritage is also heavily invested in hospitality.

Women are at the head of both Domaines Barons de Rothschild, with Saskia de Rothschild as chairwoman and  Ariane de Rothschild as chairwoman of the Edmond de Rothschild group. Chateau Clarke may be in the more discreet appellation than Lafite, a discretion that is very much a signature, but it has been brought bang up to date with the opening of the spectacular new cellars for last year’s harvest after a 3 year renovation.

South Africa Rupert

Dr Anton Rupert was a South African legend, creating a global business but also a conservationist and champion of Franschhoek wines. The family is known for their global luxury group Richemont with such famous names as Cartier, Van Cleef, Dunhill, etc. etc.

His son, Anthonij, inherited his father’s passion for wine, taking over L’Ormarins the family wine estate acquired in the 1960s. Upon Anthonij’s untimely death in 2001, the estate was taken over by elder brother Johann, also Chairman of Richemont. He opened a spectacular new cellar in his brother’s memory in 2004 and released the first vintage of Anthonij Rupert Wine in 2009. The winery is set against the breath-taking Groot Drakenstein Mountains and includes a 300 ha conservation project.  His sister Hanneli owns the other family vineyard La Motte also in Franschhoek, acquired in 1970. 

Wine brings families together 

In 1997, these two families both each with their own wine story, joined forces when Dr Anton Rupert and Baron Edmond de Rothschild created Rupert & Rothschild Vignerons, with the first vintage in 1998. Today this joint venture is still run by the two families out of the Fredericksburg estate in Franschhoek, a 17^th century property bought by Anthonij Rupert in the 1980s. Anthonij ran the Rupert and Rothschild project until his death. 

The wines are of course inspired by both South Africa, the place and terroir,  and Bordeaux in style and philosophy. With the very Bordeaux habit of producing just three wines. 

The majority of the production is sold in South Africa, where a strong following has elevated the wine to an aspirational status with a growing Chinese market.

The grapes are sourced from both Rupert owned vineyards and from independent growers. Production, especially of the two top wines is small and virtually on allocation – another Bordeaux habit. Both reds are Bordeaux blends, balanced between Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with some Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and a touch of Malbec with blends varying with every vintage. 

The Classique draws fruit from growers across the Western Cape, with whom they have long term working partnerships. Fermented in stainless tanks for freshness and malo in cement to preserve fruit before French oak barrel aging. Classique is a really accessible introduction to the house style.  

The Baron Edmond is a precision product, sourced uniquely from Franshoek, with optical sorting of fruit, stainless fermentation and extended skin contact. Some ‘malo’ takes place in new French oak before then 18 months aging in Bordeaux oak barrels up to 50% new. This is a wine built to last.  

Less Bordeaux in style is the 100% Chardonnay The Baroness Nadine. Named after Baron Edmond’s wife, it is sourced from the cooler Elgin region in the Cape coast, where the ocean breezes maintain the desired freshness. After whole bunch pressing, a blend of first, second and third fill oak barrels are used for fermentation and aging that compliments rather than dominate the wine. 

A trio from South Africa deeply influenced by Bordeaux. Could there be a better way to ease my way back?  

If you enjoyed this post,   please  sign up here  to receive future blog posts directly to your inbox or share with a friend. If you would like to read more about Bordeaux, find your copy of Bordeaux Bootcamp here, and learn about Wine and Wellness, with  The Drinking Woman’s Diet . Youn can read more of my stories from Bordeaux at Decanter  or contact me here.

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