Unlike a lot of other sustainable labels, biodynamics has one globally recognised identity, logo and label, Demeter. 

But what is biodynamic exactly? It remains a little more mysterious than organic. Despite this lack of clarity, many of the world’s greatest vineyards hold biodynamic certification. Why? 

Biodynamics is a holistic plan for creating a healthy and resilient farm by fostering biodiversity, increasing soil fertility and microbial activity, reducing tillage, and replacing monoculture with biodiversity. It sees the farm as a self-sustainable organism, frequently including animals. Interventions are minimalist with no synthetic entrants either in the field or cellars. The vine is encouraged to be able to defend itself against aggression. The emphasis is on helping the plant rather than curing it.

History 

Biodynamic agriculture is based on the writings of an Austrian philosopher, Rudolf Steiner. He applied his anthroposophy – or holistic, ecological, ethical and cosmic philosophy – to medicine and education as well as agriculture, although he had little first-hand farming experience.

In Biodynamic agriculture (and food processing) these ethics translate into a regenerative approach, a collaboration between humans and nature, putting back more than it extracts. 

The biodynamic farming movement started 100 years ago, paradoxically as farming became more industrialized in the West. In the 1920s, a group of German farmers concerned about the impact of nitrogen-based fertilizers in their soils, approached Rudolf Steiner, asking him to apply his philosophy to agriculture. In 1924, he held an agricultural course, with eight lectures on the theme “Spiritual foundations for the renewal of agriculture”. This is seen as the birth of biodynamic agriculture. 

Carbon sequestration

The concept was that agriculture should focus on nourishing the soil rather than the plant. Soil fertility and healthy soil humus is prioritized. This couldn’t be more topical in view of climate change, as healthy humus is a carbon trap. Diversity of vegetation, both wild and cultivated, diversity of microorganisms and animals are all encouraged for a rich and vibrant working relationship with nature.

Sustainability is not enough 

Biodynamics proclaim an agri-culture (hyphen intended) that includes 

Ecology: encouraging mankind to take responsibility for the holistic development of the earth, including regeneration, nourishing the soils and protecting wildlife. Agriculture is seen in its context of ecology, landscape and culture. 

Human development: impels and enables people to realise individual potential and develop their full consciousness, integrating the well-being of nature and humans.

Economic value creation: produces wholesome and healthy food and other high quality agri-cultural products that nourish body, soul, and spirit, allowing plants and animals to thrive, producing nutrient dense food.

Social relationship and responsibility: encourages people to love and work together in dignity, mutual respect, tolerance, community development and cooperation. 

Cosmic and spiritual impact: embraces the material and spiritual world and empowers mankind to be conscious of the cosmic and terrestrial forces.

It’s certainly an ambitious programme and a lot to ask of a glass of wine. 

In practice 

The farm, or vineyard, is considered as a living whole, the soil is alive – not a just a place where the vine lives. The whole environment, the exchange between the plant, the soil, the air will affect the wine. It is this living exchange that results in a better expression of terroir and a better wine. 

As diversity is one of the tenets of the method, vine monoculture is a challenge, one that can be solved through different treatments or preparations. 

The preparations 

The preparations can be animal, vegetal or mineral in origin but must be prepared, or dynamized before using, in special ‘dynamisers’, a type of blender that turns first one way and then the other.

They include compost from manure, sometimes in animal horns (increases the micro bacterial diversity of the soil), plants including chamomile, nettles, oak bark, dandelion, valerian etc., often prepared using infusions or fermentations and often in homeopathic doses. Interestingly, the same plants are often used in human treatments. 

In the rhythm 

So, what about the Cosmos?  The diurnal and seasonal rhythms are the cosmic influences on the growth of plants linked to the position of the sun and the moon. A calendar for vine treatments makes interpreting these a little easier,  improving the results of treatments and actions in the vines, from pruning to spraying, with the preparations. Treatments are preventative as well as curative; revitalizing the plant to help it can cure or at least help it protect itself against aggression. 
The difference between Organic and Biodynamic could be summarized by the influence of the sun and moon, but also the homeopathic use of specific vine treatments. These same treatments are often used in organic and other sustainable vineyards. 

Labels and certification

Demeter is the Olympian goddess of the harvest and agriculture, presiding over the fertility of the earth; an appropriate name for a biodynamic organization and certification. It dates back to1924, that very first Steiner conference, with the tag line “Healing the planet through agriculture”.

The organisation and certification are International, covering over 200,000 ha in 57 countries, and it is not limited to vines 

In 1928, The Demeter symbol was registered as a trademark, the first standards for Demeter quality control were introduced, and it became the brand for products from certified biodynamic farms. The organisation has now grown to include scientific research into the methods.

In 2020, The Biodynamic Federation brought together all 28 Biodynamic and Demeter organisations worldwide under one umbrella organisation, Demeter International.

Biodyvin is a more user-friendly name for The SIVCBD (syndicat international
des vignerons en culture bio-dynamique). It is only open to vineyards and only in Europe. 

Created in 1995, it now has over 200 members across Europe (from just 20 members in 2002) all certified biodynamic via an audit by ECOCERT, covering 5,000 ha.  All members adhere to a specific charter covering viticulture and, since 2008, wine making. 

The association is very supportive of members, covering education, tastings and promotion. As we’ve seen, biodynamics can be complicated, so mutual support really helps. 

Bordeaux biodynamics 

In 2020, 72 Bordeaux vineyards were certified Demeter or Biodyvin, covering 1,400 ha. Some of the top names in Bordeaux are now certified biodynamic : Château Palmer in Margaux, Château Pontet-Canet in Pauillac and Chateau Mazeyres in Pomerol to name a few. It’s not only the preserve of the great and the good, however; you can find biodynamic logo on bottles across the region. 

Bérénice Lurton, Château Climens, Barsac

In a previous post, I shared how many châteaux follow an evolutionary approach, taking on the challenge of ecologically responsible viticulture step by step, testing plots and working through different certifications. Not Bérénice Lurton at Château Climens in Barsac. If you know Berenice, you might not be surprised by her all-or-nothing attitude. 

Bérénice took on Château Climens in 1992 at just 22 years old, but she was no stranger to wine. She grew up at the family vineyard of Brane Cantenac in Margaux; part of the fourth generation of this iconic family of wine makers. With her brothers, sisters and cousins they are a group of 12 winemakers bringing together about 20 domains in Bordeaux and across the world. 

Her adventure into biodynamics started in 2010. Blending year after year, she found that it was getting harder – or at least it took longer – to find the blend giving the vivacity in the wines that was the signature of the property. This gave her the impetus (kick up the backside as she so eloquently describes it) to rise to the challenge.  

In 2009, thanks to an introduction by Frédéric Nivelle, the director of winemaking and viticulture, she met Jean-Michel Comme and went to Chateau Pontet-Canet, the first 1855 classified growth to become certified biodynamic. It was nothing short of a revelation, both sensorially and intellectually. The life in the vines and the tasting convinced and converted both her and Frédéric. They decided to convert the entire vineyard to biodynamics. 

Jean-Michel’s wife Corrine, who runs Chateau du Champ des Treilles in the Entre deux Mers, is also a sweet wine enthusiast, and she became Bérénice’s mentor and consultant. 

Frederic has been the perfect partner. Before joining Climens, he worked in conventional viticulture at a cooperative. For him, the conversion to biodynamics answered two challenges: the environmental challenge of regenerating the soil, preserving the natural environment and protecting the humans that work in it, but also quality. Re-establishing and reinforcing the expression of the terroir, the sense of place through the wine. 

The vineyard of Château Climens, is made up of four ‘enclos’ or plots. Frédéric asked which plot they would start with, and in her indomitable fashion Bérénice said all of them! Let’s go!

They were already using natural techniques and had stopped using herbicides in the vines years before. The first years of biodynamics were challenging, it’s difficult in the Bordeaux region, with the variability of the climate – especially in Barsac and Sauternes. It was an evolution, a holistic approach, learning and evolving through practical application. 

Bérénice feels that Biodynamics is a less risky option than organic agriculture in the region, with its high risk of fungal diseases. Why?  Because biodynamics represents a paradigm shift and offers solutions and tools, natural tools that help the vines and help the soil.

Whereas organic viticulture is about not using chemicals, biodynamics is about using nature to help the vines, offering hundreds if not thousands of natural alternative treatments. It’s not about taking away but about adding – adding life to the soil, creating balance in the natural environment. 

The aim is to respect the environment but also to allow the vines to find their own healthy equilibrium, transmitting the qualities of this unique terroir to the wine. 

Biodynamics requires great precision, attention to detail but also there is that esoteric angle that can be off-putting. Hanging antlers in vineyards, burying cow horns can all sound a bit like witchcraft. 

Bérénice explained that the cosmos covers our larger environment and the Maria Thun lunar calendar, followed in biodynamics, is based years of experience that shows how the phases of the moon, and other planets, affect plants and the environment. Working in phase with the moon is fine on a small property, but pruning all your vines on a root day when you have 30 ha would require an army! 

Whether you are into the cosmic element or not, she remains convinced that regenerative rather than sustainable agriculture is important and the attention to details needed in biodynamics creates great wine. 

Certification was a must for Château Climens. Bérénice believes there are too many people talking the talk, cherry picking at using ecology as a marketing tool rather than investing fully. The logo is proudly featured on her back label, it justifies and proves the work that has taken place in the vineyard. 

They started in 2011 with Biodyvin, gaining certification in 2014. In parallel they obtained organic certification in 2013. They chose Biodyvin as it is specialised in vine growing and many of her contemporaries were in the Biodyvin club and part of the community: the Commes, Alain Moueix at Château Mazeyres in Pomerol and Thierry Valette at Clos Puy Arnaud in Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. There were conferences and a sense of support rather than simply a certification control. This exchange and support was important in the early days.  

Eventually, Bérénice found the rules of Biodyvin were not adapted to the specificities of sweet wine production, specifically in Bordeaux where acidity is lower than in Alsace for example, and where sulphur is indispensable to protect the wine from spoilage. 

In 2017 they were certified Demeter, which has a slightly higher sulphur tolerance, although at 300mg/l it is still substantially lower than the AOC rules at 400mg/l and even organic which is 370 mg/l. 

All her wines, including her dry white, Asphodele, and her two Barsac labels are now certified Demeter. It’s a bigger machine, not specialised in viticulture, with less of a sense of community, but under the dynamic Presidency of Pierre Mainaud this is changing. Berenice and Frederic recently welcomed the southern Gironde members at the château.

Similar to the comments made in the last post by Brigitte Destouet Bourlon at Château Guibeau, she has found it much harder on older vines than on younger ones. It’s as if the older vines had become dependent on inputs, and weaning them off, putting them through a detox, was hard for the first two years. However, younger vines that have been brought up with biodynamics show more vigour and more resilience. They are more robust compared to the older vines, even reacting and recuperating better after the frost. Now her vines are free from chemical inputs, they are once again rooted deeply in the unique terroir of Barsac. 

Dealing with the recent climate problems has been really interesting; despite what you might think, she feels she has a pharmacy of natural remedies available in her ‘tisanerie’, the attic where she dries her herbs for the preparations. It has been a real boon.   

Berenice is optimistic about the future, she remains convinced that environmental responsibility, the move away from conventional (i.e., chemical) agriculture is inevitable with the younger generation of winemakers now in Bordeaux. 

And the improvement in quality of the wine? It’s been a tricky few years. Out of the last four harvests, two have been affected by hail and two by frost. A variability that has made it difficult to assess the evolution. She says it’s hard for her to be an objective judge, she’s too invested; but she is convinced there’s more purity, more sense of place. Professional tasters who come regularly to the property think so too. She’s happy with that. 

 

In the next post, I’ll continue this exploration of environmentally friendly viticulture in Bordeaux with some lesser known labels and certifications. Please sign up here  to receive future blog posts delivered directly to your inbox.

To learn more about Bordeaux, you can buy  Bordeaux Bootcamp here, and to learn more about Wine and Wellness, with The Drinking Woman’s Diet here.  

Search for: Search