Margaux is a paradox. It is the largest of all the village or ‘communal’ appellations in the Medoc and yet the most cohesive.  

Size matters. With 1 500 ha under vines (Pauillac and Saint Estèphe have just over 1200 each), it represents 9% of the Medoc region and 1% of Bordeaux production. That might not sound like much but the production averages an impressive 56 000 hl of wine pa. Bordeaux is big.

Diversity. Geographically, the Margaux appellation reaches from Arsac in the southwest to Labarde in the East, with Margaux and Cantenac in the centre and Soussan to the north. Consequentially, it has one of the most diverse range of gravel soils in the Medoc, with clay, sand and some limestone sprinkled amongst them. On many Margaux properties, vines make up just part of the surface area, woodland, meadow and lakes are all part of the diversity.

All 65 of the Margaux properties are independent chateaux (there are no co-ops in Margaux). Of these, 21 are classified growths, there are also small independent family producers, Crus Bourgeois and Crus Artisans. 

The high percentage of classified growths and of course, 1st growth Château Margaux at its heart, all adds to the prestige and renown of this appellation. You would be forgiven for thinking that this diversity would make it tricky to work together. You’d be wrong. 

United in the cause. The wine makers of Margaux have always enjoyed a tight bond. They were one of the first appellations to work together for wine tourism ensuring that there are properties open to welcome visitors seven days a week. During COVID, if one chateau doesn’t have the capacity to welcome guests, they will happily recommend a neighbour who does. 

Now they are working together to preserve their precious environment.  Many Margaux properties are leaders in organic and biodynamic viticulture: 82% of the Margaux vineyard is farmed without herbicides and 83% without insecticides  (except for Flavescence Dorée where there is a legal obligation to control the disease). 84% are in, or qualifying for, an environmental certification with seven properties already certified organic representing 13% of appellation (the national average is 11%). Many more are practicing organic and biodynamic viticulture. 

However motivated and passionate about the environment individual producers may be, the Margaux wine syndicate, regrouping all the producers, realised that it was important for the appellation to work together to make a significant impact. 

In 2013, a project was agreed under the presidency of Gonzague Lurton, a passionate environmentalist. 

Mapping it out. The first stage, in 2013 and 2014 was an audit of the natural environment with Vit’Innov, linked to the Bordeaux University and the ISSV (Institute of vine and wine science) specialised in transferring academic research into the real world. 

They mapped out the region, not only the vineyards and agricultural land, but the marshy areas near the estuary, the river banks, the meadows running down to the water, local lakes, the woods and of course the villages including parks and gardens and buildings.

In 2015, working with the LPO (France’s league for the protection of birds) they took a wild life inventory. They found some very cool stuff: 17 different species of bats, 185 species of wild bees (there are almost 1000 in France), 51 species of birds (including the crested lark, little owls, yellow wagtails and Tawny pipits) and 30 species of butterfly. However these species were not spread out evenly across the region but found around rather than in the vineyards, but it was a great base to build on. 

Under the current presidency of Edouard Miailhe of Château Siran the aim is to re colonise the appellation. They are creating eco reservoirs: hedgerows, thickets and groves of trees, wildflower plantations on fallow land, in between and around the vines and then to link them together with ecological corridors for both flora and fauna.

Wild flower seed mixes from indigenous species were selected to plant on fallow land between pulling up and replanting vines. They recommended delaying the mowing of grasses and flowers until later in the season. It might look untidy but after allowing flowers to bloom to encourage pollinators the seed heads feed the birds. Installing bird boxes and other shelter to encourage small animals that, in turn, can help the natural battle against vine pests. 

Now 84% of the surface area of the appellation is involved, 25 properties have undertaken more than 350 different initiatives including educational days to explain their initiatives. 

Making it official. Called ‘Margaux, Terroir de Biodiversité’, the initiative is certified as a GIEE (Groupement d’Intérêt Economique et Environnemental) by the Ministry of Agriculture and supported by the government as a collective economic, environmental and social endeavour. The project is financed by a levy on the participating vineyards. 

Diversity is present within individual properties as well as across the appellation. Château Dufort Vivens is a perfect example. It reaches across three of the five Margaux villages: Margaux, Cantenac and Soussans. Gonzague Lurton is the 3rd generation of Lurtons here, taking over in 1992. He is well known as a pioneer of eco-friendly agriculture, passionate about the microbiological life of the soil. He started converting to biodynamic farming in 2009 and was certified by DEMETER in 2016.

At La Tour de Bessan Gonzague’s sister, Marie-Laure has a similar passion, the property was certified Terra Vitis sustainable agriculture in 2003. She has embraced the new project planting two km of hedges, mowing her meadows and around the vines and ditches later in the season, leaving the ‘bessaniers’ (a typical Medoc word for the grassed pathways between the vines) to flower and planting wild flowers on the fallow plots as part of the SME certification. 

Now a poster child for bio dynamics in Bordeaux, Château Palmer was not immediately convinced following their first biodynamic trials in 2008, but eventually it lead them from monoculture to biodiversity, creating an environment that now includes sheep, grass, flowers and other plants. They have planted over 2500 trees and hedges. With the help of an entomologist, they studied the balance between pests and the predators that feed on them and choose native and heritage trees and hedges that would be beneficial to the predators’ habitat. Another twenty fruit trees will be planted amongst the vines this year to encourage bats to use the vineyard as a hunting ground as they eat the caterpillars that spread grey mould.

Come and see for yourself. The project is a boon for wine tourism as well as biodiversity. Consumers embrace the environmentally friendly production values and the wild flowers, birds and bees make a visit to the appellation more attractive for visitors and give wine makers something new to share. It’s a welcome change from wine cellars on a wine tour.

Chateau d’Angludet is one of the oldest Médoc properties and home to the Sichel family. Seventh generation Daisy Sichel puts biodiversity at the heart  of the visitor experience. She grew up on the vineyard and takes guests around the vines on an electric golf cart while sipping a glass of wine. Of their 81 hectares, just 32 are dedicated to vines, where her uncle Benjamin, uses a blend of integrated, organic and alternative management practices including planting 200 fruits trees amongst the vines. His objective is to make wines that are the best expression of terroir of course but also to protect and preserve the environment for future Sichel generations. This philosophy of stewardship is a common theme on family-owned and run vineyards. 

Château Siran also has the typical Margaux mix of vines, woods and meadows. Of its 88 hectares, 38 hectares are planted with vines, all farmed under sustainable viticulture since 2000. Guests can discover the estate guided by statues of Bacchus throughout the property, finishing on the terrace above the cellar with its panoramic views of the estate, allowing you to appreciate the diversity. 

Next door, Château Dauzac also offers a warm welcome to visitors. The 120 ha include meadows, orchards, an arboretum, a vegetable garden and 150 metres of hedges to encourage biodiversity. You will find egrets, herons, sheep that graze in the park and a dozen beehives. Humans too can be found at the picnic tables in the park. 

Visits to Château d’Arsac have always included the great outdoors. The owner Philip Raoux has an amazing collection of contemporary art placed through the 250 ha vineyard. The property has embraced the transition to eco-friendly winemaking and sustainable development since the early 2000s and is certified level three of the  High Environmental Value certification. 

Each and every Margaux property has passionate wine makers happy to show and share their very own ‘natural history’ and their role in the regeneration of this ancient wine region. 

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