The 2020 vision of Cru Bourgeois.
As a roving Bordeaux, and in particular, Medoc wine educator, Cru Bourgeois are always part of my class. I’m a fan. For me, many Cru Bourgeois wines represent excellent value from a region that is, all too often only associated with wines at the pricier end of Bordeaux. If you’ve followed previous blogs, including the recent one by Laura Clay on the 2017 vintage classification, you’ll know there were changes afoot for the Cru Bourgeois of the Medoc.
Last week the latest classification was announced. It was unusual on three counts: first its announcement in February, second it will last for five years, and third it reintroduces the historic hierarchy.
Since the 2007 vintage, the Cru Bourgeois have announced their classification annually in September, vintage by vintage. This is two years after the harvest, at the point of bottling, when wines are released onto the market. The 2007 vintage was classified in 2009 and last September 2019 was the 10th anniversary with the 2017 vintage, as reported by Laura.
The Cru Bourgeois classification has been unique in the Medoc in re classifying each vintage, unlike the famous and immoveable 1855 classification, and the less well-known Cru Artisan classification, which has only undergone two classifications since its inception in 2006.
The other difference is the origin of the classification. The 1855 classification was based on market values, whereas with the Cru Bourgeois tis based on blind tasting. It also included properties in Sauternes and Barsac.
After ten years of a very successful classification system, and in parallel a promotional campaign to raise awareness for the wines, the Cru Bourgeois are feeling confident enough in their established quality and independent system to now classify every five years.
In 1932 when the Cru Bourgeois Classification was first introduced, there were over 400 properties and, along the lines of the 1855 Classification, it had three-tier quality hierarchy. When the classification was re established in 2003 they tried to reintroduce this hierarchy, it didn’t go well, so as of 2007 one level it was.
Tasting the wines over these ten years that the classification has established itself, it is clear that, although there is a minimum quality level within almost 300 properties there are differences not only in style, as you would expect from the seven (at the moment) appellations of the Medoc that participate, but also a difference in quality. The same names seem to regularly rise to the top.
It was time to reintroduce this historical hierarchy. Not a simple task. Having a classification that lasts five years changes everything. Rather than the wine of a particular vintage being classified it is now the property that is classified, facilitating the reintroduce of the three-tier system of Cru Bourgeois, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur and Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel.
Of the 249 Cru Bourgeois awarded last week, 170 are Cru Bourgeois, 56 Cru Bourgeois Supérieurs and 14 Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnels. The levels were awarded by an independent jury, based on a blind tasting of five vintages between 2008 and 2016 chosen by the producer, but also, for the two top tiers, on technical commercial and promotion aspects including environmental certification.
This classification will hold good for the vintages 2018 through 2022 allowing for a smooth commercial strategy for the chateaux but also for the commercial intermediaries and hopefully the consumer.
Congratulations to the 14 winners at the top of the pyramid: Chateaux d’Agassac, Arnauld, Belle-Vue, Cambon La Pelouse, Charmail, Malescasse, de Malleret, and du Taillan in the Haut-Médoc, Château Lestage in Listrac-Médoc, Châteaux d’Arsac and Paveil de Luze in Margaux and Châteaux Le Boscq, Le Crock and Lilian Ladouys in St-Estèphe.
You can see the full classification here.
The next classification in 2025 will be based on a blind tasting from the 2017 and 2021 vintages. Something to look forward to.
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