The Bordeaux blend has been in the news recently with six ‘new’ grape varieties being introduced to the mix on an experimental basis. Currently only for the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur appellations, it is a working experiment to see how these newcomers respond to climate change, in particular warmer and drier summers. To maintain their AOC, growers are limited to planting just 5% of their vineyards with these grape varieties and they must represent no more than 10% of the final blend for each colour. See more details here.

Red and white blends.

Red planting dominates Bordeaux (89%) and Merlot dominates the red, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc with only 3% left for Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carmenère. 

The whites are evenly balanced between Sémillon and Sauvignon (blanc and increasingly gris) with a small amount of Muscadelle and again just 3% left for the harder to find Merlot Blanc, Colombard and Ugni blanc. 

Why blend?

Bordeaux is large and diverse, with different soils and different microclimates that suit different grape varieties. Each grape variety has a different aromatic and taste profile, bringing them together creates something greater than the sum of their parts. Elegance and complexity are the characteristics growers are looking for.

This large wine region has a diversity of terroirs, and in the temperate and humid climate of Bordeaux the notion of terroir and its interaction with microclimate is key to choosing which variety to plant. In most years, Cabernet Sauvignon will struggle to flourish on cooler clay soils, and Merlot will loose its freshness on warmer gravel.

Mother Nature offers new challenges each year and grapes and the plots they are planted on will respond differently to these. Every vintage is a new blending adventure.

Why not? 

Blending is not an obligation, you can find single varietal wines in Bordeaux, if you look hard enough. To save you the search here are some suggestions.

Variety, varietal. A quick note on the terms variety and varietal. Variety refers to the type or name of the grape: Merlot and Cabernet are varieties. Varietal originally referred to a wine made from a single grape variety (or ‘mono-cépage’ in French). In Europe, for a single variety to be used on the label, the wine must be at least 85% of that single grape variety (75% in the USA).

With a blend it is not obligatory to mention all the grapes, if producers mention two or more, each one must represent at least 15% of the blend, be listed in decreasing order and add up to 100%. 
If producers want to mention single digit percentages they will tend to use the back label. Turn the bottle around a small amount of Muscadelle in whites or Petit Verdot in reds can make all the difference. 

100% Merlot 

Given its dominance across the region, the most common single varietal wine is Merlot. The most famous Bordeaux appellation for Merlot is Pomerol, followed by Saint Emilion. Château Petrus is 100% Merlot. Nearby Le Chemin de Pomerol by Francois Despagne, the brilliant owner wine maker at Saint Emilion first growth Château Grand Corbin Despagne makes delicious organic 100% Merlot which is more affordable, but difficult to find with its tiny production of 3 500 bottles. 

In Saint Emilion, Château Bellevue, made by the team at Château Angelus, is 100% Merlot. The nearby, and often unjustly overlooked, appellation of Fronsac is an excellent Merlot terroir, look out for Sally Evans‘ Château Georges 7.

The Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur appellations offer the largest choice of 100% Merlot, in styles varying from light and fruity to barrel aged, all at excellent value for money. So many to choose from, Château Lestrille is a favourite.

100% Cabernet Sauvignon  

You will occasionally find a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux Supérieur too, but it’s the left bank, in particular the Medoc, that is the land of Cabernet thanks to the deep gravels found along the Gironde Estuary. Since 1995, Château Sociando Mallet in Haut Medoc has made a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon Cuvée Jean Gautreau, a fitting tribute to the property’s owner who sadly died in 2019 at the grand age of 92. 

Also on the left bank, young wine maker Marielle Baissas makes a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from vines in the Graves at her family estate Château Haut Rigal.

100% Cabernet Franc 

Top Saint Emilion properties Château Angelus, Le Dome and Château Cheval Blanc all have a high percentage of Cabernet Franc. Percentages seem to be increasing across the appellation where Cabernet Franc thrives on the clay and limestone soils.  

You can find 100% Cabernet Franc in the Entre deux Mers at Château de Bel (and 100% Muscadelle) and since 2016 Château Fleur Haut Gaussens has made a 100% Cabernet Franc Cuvée la Bergeronnette.

100% Petit Verdot is traditionally used in small percentages in Médoc blends, although recent vintages seem to see an increase, due in part to better canopy management and perhaps the warmer summers. 

Château Moutte Blanc is passionate about Petit Verdot, which makes up 30% of the tiny 5.5 ha property that covers three appellations; Bordeaux Supérieur, Margaux and Haut Medoc. Their Cuvée Moisin Haut Medoc is 100% Petit Verdot. 

Château Belle-Vue also a Cru Bourgeois Exceptional in the Haut Médoc, produces a 100% old vine Petit Verdot, alongside its classic blend.

100% Carmenère.

Carmenère is a rare find in Bordeaux but Château Recougne, a Bordeaux Supérieur near Fronsac makes a 100% Cuvée Carmenère. 

100% Malbec 

Malbec is also known as Pressac in Bordeaux, there is even a Château de Pressac in Saint Emilion, although Malbec only makes up a symbolic 1% of their blend. 

Further north, Chateau Madeleine Bouhou in Blaye produces La Petite Madeline and Château Fleur Haut Gaussens  “La Viminiére” both single  Malbecs.

White.

It is easier to find single varieties in white than in red. Sauvignon Blanc was the first grape variety that Bordeaux producers were allowed to mention on a front label. The Entre deux Mers offers an abundance of choice and value. 

100% Sauvignon

There are a few 100% Sauvignon Blanc in the prestigious Pessac Léognan, known for it’s classified white wines. Chateau Rochemorin from the Andre Lurton stable is a favourite. 

Although the Medoc doesn’t have a specific white appellation many top vineyards here produce a white wine. This is not a new trend, Château Margaux was producing ‘Chateau Margaux vin de Sauvignon’ back in the 19th century. They continue to make the 100% Sauvignon Blanc, sold since the 1920s as Pavillon Blanc. Try the 100% Sauvignon from Château Corconnac in Haut Medoc.  

Blaye is an underestimated white appellation, where  Château Mon Conseil Gazin makes a Blaye Cotes de Bordeaux blanc 100% Sauvignon Blanc. 

Château Bauduc produces a 100% Sauvignon, a 100% Semillon as well as a classic blend. Order all three and blind taste to see if you can identify them.

100% Sauvignon gris

Another variety growing in popularity thanks to the complexity it brings to a blend, but I haven’t come across many Sauvignon Gris single varietal wines. 

Co-operatives in Bordeaux are excellent sources of single varietal wines. They account for a remarkable 25% of Bordeaux production. Working with many, often-smaller growers they have a large palette to play with so there’s plenty of choice.  Producta produce Grain de Lune 100% Sauvignon Gris. Château Moulin de Launay produces both a 100% Sauvignon Gris and a 100% Muscadelle (see below) in the Entre deux Mers. I recommend going to their site to see the animated description of the different varietals in all their cuvées. 

100% Semillon is more often associated with the sweet white wines of Bordeaux in Barsac and Sauternes. Château Climens, 1st growth of Barsac,  is planted in 100% Semillon, and it is also the variety used exclusively for their new dry white Asphodele.

The top Cuvée Madame de Château Coutet, also a Barsac 1st growth is 100% Semillon and La Semillante, the dry white wine from Sauternes first growth Château Sigalas Rabaud is 100% Sémillon, one of the first in Bordeaux. 

100% Muscadelle

As well as Château Moulin de Launay I mentioned above, Co-operative  Producta produce 100% Muscadelle, but my favourite is  Nobody’s Perfect from Château de Monfaucon made from organic vines on the edge of the Dordogne river in Entre deux Mers by renegade Dawn Jones Cooper. She also makes a 100%  Sauvignon, a  Semillon and a Chardonnay – not a Bordeaux of course. 

Co-ops go wild

I mentioned co-ops above, The Univitis group, a large Co-op that covers the whole of the South West, has a  ‘Wild Selection’ range. all Bordeaux appellations, it includes 100% Sauvignon; Semillon, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and 100% Cabernet Franc Rosé. They are all sourced from Château Les Vergnes. The chateau is farmed sustainably with the Bee orchard and HVE (Haut Valeur Evironmental) certificates and is in conversion to organic agriculture since 2018. Each bottle carries the image of a different endemic bird found on their vineyard, showing their commitments to the local natural environment.

Off piste. 

The Entre deux Mers and Bordeaux – Bordeaux  Supérieur come up time and time again in the search for these wines. These less famous appellations, for want of a better word, with their family run properties seem to be more adventurous. Needs must perhaps; competition is tough at this price point. Or does being smaller and independently owned mean an openness to experimentation? 

Les Truffières from Château Thieuley is a perfect example. In Entre deux Mers, alongside their Bordeaux range, the Courcelle sisters produce both a Chardonnay and a Shiraz, not Bordeaux appellation of course, Vin de France but single varietal none the less.

 

 

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