In English, Entre Deux Mers is usually translated into ‘between two seas’. In fact the name comes from ‘marées’ (tides) rather than ‘mer’ (sea), which makes a lot more sense. This triangular appellation lies between two tidal rivers, the Dordogne to the north and the Garonne to the south. The constant movement of water can be picturesque, especially if you catch the locals surfing on the ‘Mascaret’ or tidal bore (see title photo), but it also has the advantage of keeping the air moving, offering some protection against frost which is front of mind right now, with the severe weather conditions this April. 

The Eastern limit is the edge of the Gironde department, the western tip is Le Bec d’Ambés where the two great rivers join at the level of Margaux, to form The Gironde Estuary.

It is a stunningly beautiful and historical region with rolling, vine clad hills, known locally as Bordeaux’s Tuscany. Often overlooked by visitors looking for the famous names of Bordeaux, it’s their loss, the curious explorer will find affordable and delicious wines made by traditional wine making families in glorious countryside. 

Step back in time. 

Vines here date back to Roman times, but extensive planting started in the 11th century. The imposing Abbaye of la Sauve Majeur, founded in 1079, and now a UNESCO heritage site, bears witness to this medieval history. The Benedictine wine-making monks here cleared land for vines, bringing prosperity to the region, thanks in large part to trade with England.

Architectural wealth. 

The region is littered with Roman churches from the middle ages and fortified villages or Bastides, such as Creon, Monsegur and Pellagrue, all built around bustling market squares.

During the tumultuous 100 years war and later during the 16th century French War of Religion, many farms were fortified and chateaux built, all adding to the architectural wealth. Chateau Bellefontaine is a typical example. Fans of architecture should check out the instagram account @entredeuxmerslover 

Highs and lows 

By 1850 there were over 45,000 ha vines, dominated by semi-sweet white wines that were the fashion. Phylloxera in 1870 destroyed two thirds of the vines, frosts in the 1950s hit the area badly too and replanting saw a shift from white to red. Red dominates to this day.

More recently, in August 2013, the appellation lost close to 10% of its entire production due to severe storms with several estates losing their entire crop. This year, frosts hit certain parts of the appellation badly too. 

Diversity.

Covering 133 villages or communes the size of the appellation means a diversity of soils, which also explains the diversity of styles. 

The limestone plateaux average 60-100m with the highest point of La Gironde here at 146 m. Streams running into the rivers, depositing clay and sandy gravel, dissect the slopes. The cooler soils and microclimates are perfect for the fresh dry white wines. 

There is more sand and gravel in west and south-west and more limestone in the east, a continuation of the limestone plateaux of Saint Emilion and Castillon. Many chateaux have the same underground limestone quarries found in Saint Emilion with some very cool aging cellars.

In times of crisis these quarries offered a welcome alternative source of income, the warm limestone was used for building the local towns and villages with some quarries such as Frontenac, still operational today.

There are just 250 producers of Entre Deux Mers covering over 1,500 ha, but there is close to 36,000 hectares in total, making it the largest appellation in Bordeaux. 

Alongside the white Entre Deux Mers other appellations include Bordeaux Blanc, Bordeaux Supérieur Blanc (a miniscule production), Red Bordeaux, Red Bordeaux Supérieur, Rosé, Clairet and Crémant de Bordeaux. Some chateaux are making Vins de Pays and Vin de France, experimenting with other varieties such as Chardonnay. 

Vine plantations favour reds, over 30,000ha are in red and just over 5,000 in white. Of the white production over 5,000 ha are in Bordeaux Blanc and less than 2,000ha in Entre Deux Mers Producing a range makes economic sense, reaching a broader market. Total production from the region accounts for about one third of Gironde wine production.

Often around 60 ha, properties are larger than the Bordeaux average, a dramatic change in recent years, in the 1970s, the average was around seven hectares. Consolidation is necessary for viability at this very competitive price point, bringing with it economies of scale that have enabled more investment and notable increases in quality. 

Cooperative production is also important, 1700 producers in the region (all colours) belong to cooperatives that produce around 85% of the white wine 

Environmentally friendly

Families passing on properties through the generations is a characteristic of the region. The notion of stewardship leads to an ecological reasonable approach to managing the land. 94% of the surface area of Entre Deux Mers is under environmental certification, 106 producers are certified HVE, (Haute Valeur Environmental) of which 10 are also Terra Vitis, (a sustainable agriculture certification) and 30 organic.

The power of the blend 

L’Entre Deux Mers has a stricter set of production criteria than generic Bordeaux Blanc, especially around vine density (vines per ha minimum) and canopy management implying greater investment and a consequent commitment to quality. 

Entre Deux Mers appellation wines must be a blend of at least two of the principal varieties, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Semillon and Muscadelle. These in total must represent at least 70% of the blend. Accessory varieties, Colombard, Mauzac, Ugni Blanc and Merlot Blanc can also be in the blend, but no more than 30% in total. If it’s a 100% varietal wine it will have to be AOC Bordeaux Blanc.

In a previous article I mentioned the ‘new’ white grapes varieties of Alvarinho and Liliorila  introduced last year. These are limited to Bordeaux Blanc and not included in Entre Deux Mers blend.

Change afoot? 

Entre Deux Mers appellation was originally created for red and white wines, since 1937 only white has the right to use the appellation – for the moment. Jacques Lurton, a cheerleader for the Appellation and a leading producer at Château Bonnet in Grézillac, told me the management syndicate for the appellation voted at 93% in favour of a Red Entre Deux Mers appellation. This is not strictly the creation of a new appellation but expanding the existing white appellation to include red, introducing the same stricter quality rules as for white. 

When you look at the area under red grapes in the region you can see why. This has yet to go through the INAO so it might take a while but they are aiming for the first red Entre Deux Mers appellation harvest in 2022 – watch this space.

To Bordeaux or not to Bordeaux. 

As the production criteria are stricter, an Entre Deux Mers can be labelled as a Bordeaux Blanc, but not the other way round. Why would a producer do this? Usually when they are selling into markets where the name of Bordeaux will be more familiar than Entre de Mers. 

Currently 73% of sales of Entre Deux Mers remain in France, something producers are working to change. 

Château Bauduc, a 80 ha estate on the edge of the bastide town of Créon, produces more white than red wine but they only use the Bordeaux Blanc appellation and always have done. Owner Gavin Quinney explains ‘We’d use Entre Deux Mers if there was a benefit, which may be the case in the future. The name Bordeaux is nice and clear and I rather like the fact that all those smart dry whites from the Médoc, such as Pavillon Blanc, are Bordeaux.’ 

Entre Deux Mers wines are characterised by floral and fruity aromatics and fresh acidity. Most are stainless fermented, using pre-fermentation skin contact to enhance aromas and aged for a short time on their lees. Occasionally you’ll find a ‘prestige cuvée’ that has seen some oak, but these are not wines to age, they won’t hang around anyway, they’re much too delicious!

Here are a few Entre Deux Mers to try so you can help spread the love.

Château Fonfroide is a perfect example of how producers respond to market demand. They used to sell their white uniquely as AOC Entre Deux-Mers. Demand from clients then switched to AOC Bordeaux, but over the last two years they have been asked for Entre-Deux-Mers. They think this is down to a demand for more niche wines, belonging to a specific AOC, a desire for a product with a sense of place. They are more than happy to oblige.  The fortified property dates back to 1676. Hugues Dutheillet de Lamothe joined the family vineyard 1988 that now covers 70 Ha of vines.

 

The Lurton family has been in the Entre Deux Mers since the 1850s, buying their flagship Château Bonnet in 1897 at the time already a sizeable 120 ha, it now covers 300 hectares. 

A pioneer of screw cap, they have always been at the forefront of innovation. Their new label design launched for the 2020 vintage is printed on recycled paper with natural ink on lighter glass bottles, reducing their carbon footprint by more than 400 tonnes per year. Since 2017, the vineyard has been certified High Environmental Value level 3 (HVE3). They will release Château Tour de Bonnet in BIB (bag in box) later this year.

Chateau Lestrille, is another family property in the heart of Entre Deux Mers, since 1901, where Estelle Roumage is the fifth generation winemaker. Also in the HVE certification, they are in conversion to organic agriculture and she is working with the NGO HISA to encourage biodiversity by planting more trees and shrubs. Her new labels, with birds, butterflies and bees give the nod to her environmental credentials. 

Her Entre Deux Mers is a blend of Sauvignon blanc, gris, Semillon and Muscadelle, giving a bright and floral aromatic complexity and the signature freshness. Her Bordeaux blanc, sold under the label Lestrille Capmartin has more Semillon in the blend and is fermented and aged in oak, in a more graves style.

The Despagne family is another Entre Deux Mers institution. Their Château Tour de Mirambeau takes its name from the old windmill on the property near Rauzan, another fortified Bastide village. Since 1769, it has been passed down through the women of the family for over eight generations. it is well known abroad thanks to being served on British Airways flights (remember those?) 

The monks of La Sauve Majeure Abbey once ran Château Sainte-Marie, which might explain the name of the property; there are claims of a miraculous source of water used by medieval pilgrims.  They still have statues of the Virgin Mary on the property and in the cellar.  There is also a historical plot of Semillon over 100 years old. Stéphane Dupuch took over the family property in 1997 from his father, Gilles Dupuch, a previous President of Entre-Deux-Mers and passionate defender of the region. They make two Entre Deux Mers one with the ‘Veilles Vignes’ from those older vines, a Sauvignon, Semillon blend with just a touch of Muscadelle. 

Entre Deux Mers has the sound of the sea about it; the traditional pairing here in Bordeaux is with oysters from nearby Atlantic Ocean, but it’s a versatile wine, ideal for summer drinking. The timing couldn’t be more perfect. 

If you have enjoyed this post please sign up here  to receive future blog posts directly to your inbox. If you would like to learn more about Bordeaux, you can buy your copy of Bordeaux Bootcamp here, to learn more about Wine and Wellness, you can buy your copy of The Drinking Woman’s Diet here. 

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