It’s a tough time for restaurants throughout the world and France, with a 6pm curfew, is no exception. Despite their best efforts to receive guests safely, they still not allowed to open. There was some respite back in the summer after the first lockdown, but no longer.  

It must have been a tricky year for Michelin inspectors to test all their usual haunts, which might explain why there are fewer stars in 2021 than 2020, in and around Bordeaux. 

Despite being open for only for three months between lockdowns, the newly named Observatoire du Gabriel, (previously Le Gabriel) gained it’s first Michelin star this year. The restaurant is on the 2nd floor of the building at the centre of the spectacular 18th century Place de la Bourse, above the Le Gabriel bistro and the ground floor bar. The name aptly describes the view over the ‘mirroir d’eau’ and la Garonne River. 

The star is not surprising as the team, lead by Alexandre Baumard and Damien Amilien, won their first Michelin star for Le Logis de La Cadène in Saint Emilion back in 2017. Logis also kept their star in 2021.

Going Green 

The other new star in the region has created quite the buzz. In Arès, on the edge of the Arcachon Basin, ONA is one of five restaurants in the New Aquitaine region (and 82 across the country) to receive the new Michelin Green Star (Etoile Vert). Represented by a green, four-leaf clover symbol, the award recognises sustainable gastronomy at restaurants concentrating on protecting the environment, using local and seasonal products, encouraging biodiversity and minimising waste. 

ONA, an acronym for Origine Non Animale (no animal origin), was opened in 2016 by self-taught and crowdfunded chef Claire VALLÉE. As the name implies, it is Vegan, the first vegan restaurant in France to win a classic Michelin star alongside the green one. The 7 course evening menu promises to take you on an ‘unexpected voyage’ I’ll let you know once I’ve tried it for myself. 

Nearby, Le Skiff Club, in the very trendy Ha(a)itza hotel in chic Pyla sur Mer is also a Green Star winner,  as well as a two star restaurant. The Ha(a)itza, is a classic 1930s Basque style building, known then as Haitza. In 2016, it was completely renovated with the help of Philippe Stark. The same team is behind the success of the nearby hotel and restaurant La Co(o)rniche (whose restaurant has a Michelin Assiette), which has the best views of the Arcachon basin. I can recommend Le Skiff Club, the cuisine is more traditional working with local producers, heavily into fish and seafood as you would expect from the location on ‘Le Basin’.

Away from the coast and back to the vines, what does the Michelin guide recommend for us in 2021? 

Two stars include Le Pressoir d’Argent in the Intercontinental Hotel and l’Oiseau Bleu in the centre of Bordeaux, La Grande Vigne at Les Sources de Caudalie in the grounds of Château Smith Haut Lafitte in the Graves and La Table de Pavie, (previously the Hostellerie de Plaisance) in the centre of beautiful saint Emilion. 

Amongst the one stars in Bordeaux centre Garopapilles is a firm favourite, as is the Pavilion des Boulevards. Philippe Echtebest’s Table d’Hôtes du 4ieme Mur, is a unique private dining experience;  downstairs from Le 4ieme Mur in the spectacular Bordeaux opera house, (probably the most elegant terrace in town) and the Tentazioni that I have yet to try. 

On the outskirts of town both the Le Prince Noir and Le Saint James keep their stars. The Saint James remains a favourite with spectacular views across the city from the right bank of the Garonne. 

I mentioned le Logis de la Cadène in Saint Emilion above, but I recommend stopping off on the way at the Auberge Saint Jean on the banks of the Dordogne. Carry further East along the river towards Bergerac to dine at Les Fresques at the Château de Vigiers golf and country club. 

In Sauternes I’ve waxed lyrical about one star Lalique, in the Hotel Lalique at Château Lafaurie Peyraguey; which I was sure would gain a second star.  There’s more Michelin one star dining just down the road in Langon at Claude Darroze as well.

Even further afield Les Foudres in the Hotel Chais Monnet in Cognac, is well worth a visit, built in the old cellars of the Monnet Cognac house you feel as if you are dining in the old Cognac vats. 

Outside of Bordeaux I’m thrilled another favourite, La Mirande, in the shadow of the Papal Palace in Avignon, has been awarded a green star alongside it’s classic star. I love wine tours to the Rhone, (fingers crossed I’ll be there with French Wine Explorers this autumn) and this is a favourite place to stay and dine. As well as working with organic local suppliers (who names are written on your souvenir menu) they grow their own culinary herbs on the roof of the kitchens.

There’s more.

Michelin isn’t only about coveted stars, green or other wise, the Bib Gourmand and Plate (l’Assiette launched in 2016) are well worth including in a wine tour itinerary for delicious food more simply served. There are plenty to choose from amongst the vineyards. 

La Chappelle at Château Guiraud, La Terrasse Rouge at Château La Dominique and Le 7 Panoramique at La Cité du Vin in Bordeaux centre are all run by the Nicolas Lascombes team and all sport a Michelin Assiette. He seems to have understood what both punter and Michelin are looking for, they are certainly popular wine tour stop offs.

Younger siblings of great tables do well in this category too, such as L’Envers du Decors in Saint Emilion run by the same team as La Table de Pavie across the road, La table de Lavoir, the bistro at Les Sources de Caudalie. I’m delighted to see la Maison d’Estournel in Saint Estèphe that is well worth a trip to the North of the Médoc, now sporting it’s ‘Assiette’. 

What is open, when and where? 

To help both tourism professional and eager clients, Michelin has created a worldwide barometer for restaurant openings in the pandemic to “take the pulse of global gastronomy in order to inform and build awareness of our ecosystem.”, according to  International Director of the MICHELIN Guides, Gwendal Poullennec, when it was launched in May 2020. Who would have through it would still be in action now? 
Each week, the barometer records the number of Michelin Starred restaurants open for dining inside or out, providing a real-time overview of the rate at which Michelin Starred restaurants across the world are reopening.  

Looking at the entries for restaurants on the Michelin web site, it’s encouraging to see lots of offers for takeaways, as they try and keep local clients happy. Some websites are optimistically open for future reservations – although I’m not sure when that will be. Most hotel websites say they will welcome guests again in March or April. I sincerely hope so for their sake and ours. 

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