Month: July 2019

Posted on

Accessible elitism on the right bank.

Sometimes it helps having a famous big brother  and sometimes you live in their shadow.  Which one is it for the satellite appellations of Saint Emilion?

There are a total of ten appellations on the right bank or Libournais region of Bordeaux, Saint Emilion is the largest, accounting for almost 45% of the total area. Since 1984 there are two Saint Emilion appellations: Saint Emilion and Saint Emilion Grand Cru, the later being the majority.  Only properties in the Saint Emilion Grand Cru appellation can apply to become Grand Cru Classé as part of the classification established in 1954 that is revised, more or less, every 10 years. The size of Saint Emilion and its long history go a long way to explain its dominance.

A map of the Libournais or right bank appellations.

The map of the region shows the Barbanne River running to the north of Saint Emilion and Pomerol, separating them from the satellite appellations and Lalande de Pomerol. Fronsac and Canon Fronsac lay to the North West, on the opposite bank of the Isle River, a tributary of the Dordogne.

What differentiates the satellite appellations from Saint Emilion and does adding on a village name bring anything to the party?

In the Medoc, a village appellation is considered a good thing. Alongside the two regional appellations of Medoc and Haut Medoc there are the six village appellations of Moulis, Listrac, Margaux, Saint Julien, Pauilac and Saint Estephe. The satellites of Saint Emilion also carry a specific name of a place: Lussac, Puisseguin, Montagne and Saint Georges and could they also be considered as regional appellations?

These appellations all have a similar blend; Merlot dominated with some complimentary Cabernet Franc, occasionally some Cabernet Sauvignon and now and again a little Malbec. This is due to a similarity in the terroir of clay and limestone and their hilly topography. The mosaic of terroirs is reinforced by a much greater variation in elevation compared to the left bank; from almost sea level up to 100 m compared to the high point of Listrac of 47m. It really is very beautiful, well worth going off the Saint Emilion-Pomerol beaten track to discover.

There’s more than wines, the woody rolling hillsides of Puisseguin Saint Emilion

Montagne Saint-Emilion is the largest of these appellations at just over 1500 ha (the two appellations of Saint Emilion and Saint Emilion grand Cru total over 5 000 ha), located to the north of Saint-Emilion it is surrounded by two small tributaries of the Isle: the Barbanne and the Lavié bringing more sandy-claysoils to the west.

Only slightly smaller, Lussac Saint-Emilion consists of terraces of plateaux and valleys that form a natural southern facing amphitheatre. The south of the appellation has clay and limestone slopes with moresilt deposits in the North left by the receding Isle River.

The Puisseguin Saint-Emilion appellation is smaller, just over 700 ha to the East of Lussac and Montagne. It has a more homogeneous terroir of some of the hardestlimestone in the region, known as asteride due to the fossilised starfish often found in the rock. This limestoneretains moisture giving a cool subsoil that lends elegance and freshness to the wines.

 Saint Georges Saint Emilion is the smallest appellation, just under 200 hectares. It is tucked in between Saint-Emilion and Montagne Saint-Emilion on an almost entirely clay-limestone soil promontory.

Given the underlying similarity between these appellations, the role of the individual wine makers really makes a difference. The right bank has always had an innovative approach to wine making, grape growing and marketing. The first French winegrower’s union was established here in Saint-Emilion as early as 1884.

The small size of the properties (average 8ha, compared to 17ha for the whole of the Bordeaux region) and the fact that the vast majority are family owned, contributes to the freedom to be more experimental. Or does Merlot lend itself to more experimentation? After all, the garage wine movement of the 1980s started here on the right bank.

There is a feeling here of working together, rather than seeing their neighbours as competition. Montagne and Saint Georges have their own ‘syndicat’ or wine bureau, but since 2007 Saint-Emilion and Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Lussac Saint-Emilion and Puisseguin Saint-Emilion have joined forces to create ‘Le Conseil des Vins de Saint-Emilion’.

In 2016, a group of nine family run, independent properties from the satellite appellations decided to group themselves together under the inspired name of Saint Elite.Their idea was to raise the profile of both their wines and their appellations by working together. They share similar soils, blends and a philosophy that protects their natural (and very picturesque) environment. As family vineyards what also unites them is their passion for leaving a healthy (financially and environmentally) vineyard to future generations, hence their engagement with sustainable practises organic, biodynamic and other sustainable initiatives.

The bottles of the Saint Elites

Although sharing many similarities, the range of wines Saint Elite offers illustrates perfectly the importance of the role of the individual winemaker mentioned above. Many have vines over two or more appellations. They aim to make wines that are approachable, in style and price point, each with there own signature. The wines include classic Bordeaux blends, but also a 100% Merlot, a 95% Malbec and a Cabernet Sauvignon dominated blend (unusual for the right bank). Some are ancient properties but that doesn’t stop them embracing modern and experimental wine techniques.

Rather than reiterate a list of all the wines take a look at the web site or the web sites of the individual producers for the details. There are three vineyards in Lussac-Saint-Emilion (Château Bel Air, Château de la Grenière and Château La Rose Periere , three in Montagne-Saint Emilion (Château Vieux Bonneau, Château La Couronne and Château Tour Bayard),two in Puisseguin-Saint Emilion  (Château Guibot La Fourvielle – who also produce a Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux) and Pierre Taix vineyards with his two labels Château La Mauriane and Château Rigaud).

As benefits the smallest appellation, Saint Georges Saint Emilion is represented by just one, Clos Albertuson a tiny 1,5 ha plot of land, alongside the family’s larger Montagne – Saint Emilion property, Château Corbin.

The people behind the bottles.

So much in common but so many variations on a theme make this collection of producers the perfect ambassadors for these lesser-known appellations, wines that should be on the radar of any Saint Emilion lovers.

If you have enjoyed this post please sign up here  to receive future blog posts directly to your in box. If you would like to learn more about Bordeaux buy your copy of Bordeaux Bootcamp here.

Posted on

From Boston to Bordeaux. Aline Baly of Chateau Coutet shares her tried and tested wine and wellness tips.

In 2008, Aline Baly traded Boston for Bordeaux and marketing Bio-science for marketing wine. Aline has lived, studied and worked in New England, the Mid-West, Asia and Europe. She holds a Masters in Business Administration focused on entrepreneurship and marketing from the Kellogg School of Management and a Bachelor of Arts degree in economics and international relations from Bucknell University.

Aline joined her uncle at the family estate, Chateau Coutet, First Classified Growth in Barsac, where she has spent the past decade using social media and her experience in communication to bring a connected vision, all while successfully overcoming cultural and generational differences.  She is also the marketing manager to a family company that owns several Bordeaux Classified Growths and the youngest board member of one of the region’s prominent Chateaux association.

Chateau Coutet, 1er Grand Cru Classé of Barsac
Cr Gunter Vincente

As she spends a lot of time on the road, she is well aware of the wellness challenges facing a woman in wine. Here she shares how she rises to these challenges.

What brought you to the business and how long have you worked here?

 I joined my uncle to co-manage the family estate in 2008 – its been over 10 years now! I am not sure where the time has gone!! Actually, a lot of time has been spent traveling the globe to meet Gold Wine lovers– my first 6 years I was averaging about 150 days a year.

What do you love most about the business?

There isn’t much to not love… It’s definitely a people business! Throw in a couple of good bottles of wine and some delicious dishes… and you’ve got yourself a “meeting”.

Wine and wellness

What does the concept of Wellness mean to you?

Wellness is feeling good about yourself, accepting yourself how you are… It’s about balance.

If it’s not indiscreet, how many times do you drink each week and do you limit yourself to a certain quantity of alcohol?

Well, my friends know me for saying “I only drink when I am working.” Which might seem crazy to some, but I usually host a lunch and/or dinner every 2-3 days…

Has your attitude changed to drinking and wellness over the years?

I use to hate exercising… but that was before. The need to move is key. I try to walk 10K steps a day – and I get to a yoga class 2 to 3 times a week.

Food

Are there foods you consciously include in your diet? If so what and why?

  • Fruits and vegetables
  • Rice – lots and lots of rice. First and foremost because I love it — but if you do your research there is a reason why it’s a fundamental food in so many cultures that feeds more than half the world’s population! Here are the benefits: provides energy, prevents obesity (low in fat, cholesterol and sodium), gluten-free (no inflammation in the gut), controls blood pressure (low in sodium), diuretic & digestive qualities (helps eliminate toxins), improves metabolism, boosts cardiovascular health, relieves IBS, etc.

Are there foods you avoid? If so what and why?

  • Red meat ; I like mine well done but I live in a region that prepares it blue…
  • Gluten when I am on the road
  • Cheese when I am on the road

Do you take any supplements? Which ones?

  • Magnesium, magnesium and more magnesium: I discovered that I have a calcium deficiency thus magnesium does not stick around in my system. And magnesium is key for managing stress.

Fitness 

Do you exercise?

  • Yoga
  • Walking, hiking

What are your biggest challenges to staying fit and healthy in your job?

  • Hours spent driving and behind my desk
  • Meals late at night and early morning calls the next day a lack of sleep

How do you overcome them?

  • I put myself first and I am not afraid to say no.
  • I have an Apple Watch that keeps me motivated by helping me, a goal oriented individual with a geek streak, turn my activity into data. When I know how many steps I have walked, I usually want to walk even more.
  • I try to walk at lunch time.
  • I coordinate my schedule to minimize early wake-up calls after late nights.
  • I work from home when possible – the day of a big night or the day after.
  • I try to have breakfast 12 hours after dinner.

Do you set yourself goals, and do they help in your aim to stay well?

  • 10000 steps a day; ideally I would like to clock in the same amount of hours I drive into walking time… but that is really only possible in summer, with longer days.
  • I track water intake… 1,5 liter is the objective – very difficult when you are on the road…
Early morning harvest at Chateau Coutet – great exercise.
Cr Gunter Vincente

Wine and women

Does that fact you are a young woman help, or is it a hindrance in this business or is it now irrelevant? If so how would you pinpoint the changes?

Should you find yourself the only women in the room, then it helps as they’ll more easily remember meeting you and your name. Should you find yourself with a bunch of machos, then it’s a hindrance. And for all the times it helps or it’s a hindrance, I have found that it can also be totally irrelevant.

Do you feel there are different expectations in drinking culture for a woman compared to male colleagues?

Fact: I have a low tolerance.

At the beginning I felt pressure to keep up with the boys in terms of my consumption during a wine dinner … until I realised that no one cares. And guests definitely prefer to speak to a lucid Aline than an Aline who needs to call it a night because she can’t think straight.

Have you seen an evolution of attitudes in the business, towards drinking in general?

It is less taboo to discuss this topic amongst wine professionals, but we have a long ways to go…

Does it affect business socialising?

Not unless I let it.

Travel

How to you cope with wellness pressures when you are travel, business and pleasure?

I once read that a famous rapper (whose name I have forgotten) survives his crazy travel schedule by keeping his home routine wherever he goes. This means bringing his peanut butter with him to enjoy the same food…  Once I read this, it clicked…

Business travel is very different than pleasure travel. It’s hard to mix the two – especially if you are traveling a 150 days a year. So when I am on the road for work I am super disciplined about sleep and what I put in my body. I try to trick my body into thinking that it’s at home relaxing…  As for what ends up in my plate – since I am promoting French wine, a lot of times our guests want to eat French foods with our wines. As a consequence, I haven’t had too many weird food experiences

Do you see a difference in attitudes in different countries?

Absolutely, every country has a different set of values that impacts expectations and governs etiquette. Adaptation is key – but I believe that you need to stay you. It’s a way to also share your culture with those that host you.

Your tips.

If you had just one or two top tips for women in wine wanting to stay well what would they be?

 Be yourself. Respect yourself. Water. Sleep. Exercise.

Is there anything else you would like to share about women in the booze business or about wine and health?

Sometimes, you have to have to throw the rulebook out and just listen to your gut, aka your second brain. And when it wants desert, there is reason it wants dessert. But this advice is not limited to your menu choices…

 

and talking of dessert

Thank-you Aline, Chateau Coutet and Magnesium it is then!

If you have enjoyed this post please sign up here  to receive future blog posts directly to your in box. If you would like to learn more about wine and wellness, buy your copy of The Drinking Woman’s Diet here.