Bordeaux beyond the blend?

The Bordeaux blend has been in the news recently with six ‘new’ grape varieties being introduced to the mix on an experimental basis. Currently only for the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur appellations, it is a working experiment to see how these newcomers respond to climate change, in particular warmer and drier summers. To maintain their AOC, growers are limited to planting just 5% of their vineyards with these grape varieties and they must represent no more than 10% of the final blend for each colour. See more details here.

Red and white blends.

Red planting dominates Bordeaux (89%) and Merlot dominates the red, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc with only 3% left for Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carmenère. 

The whites are evenly balanced between Sémillon and Sauvignon (blanc and increasingly gris) with a small amount of Muscadelle and again just 3% left for the harder to find Merlot Blanc, Colombard and Ugni blanc. 

Why blend?

Bordeaux is large and diverse, with different soils and different microclimates that suit different grape varieties. Each grape variety has a different aromatic and taste profile, bringing them together creates something greater than the sum of their parts. Elegance and complexity are the characteristics growers are looking for.

This large wine region has a diversity of terroirs, and in the temperate and humid climate of Bordeaux the notion of terroir and its interaction with microclimate is key to choosing which variety to plant. In most years, Cabernet Sauvignon will struggle to flourish on cooler clay soils, and Merlot will loose its freshness on warmer gravel.

Mother Nature offers new challenges each year and grapes and the plots they are planted on will respond differently to these. Every vintage is a new blending adventure.

Why not? 

Blending is not an obligation, you can find single varietal wines in Bordeaux, if you look hard enough. To save you the search here are some suggestions.

Variety, varietal. A quick note on the terms variety and varietal. Variety refers to the type or name of the grape: Merlot and Cabernet are varieties. Varietal originally referred to a wine made from a single grape variety (or ‘mono-cépage’ in French). In Europe, for a single variety to be used on the label, the wine must be at least 85% of that single grape variety (75% in the USA).

With a blend it is not obligatory to mention all the grapes, if producers mention two or more, each one must represent at least 15% of the blend, be listed in decreasing order and add up to 100%. 
If producers want to mention single digit percentages they will tend to use the back label. Turn the bottle around a small amount of Muscadelle in whites or Petit Verdot in reds can make all the difference. 

100% Merlot 

Merlot at Chateau La Tour du Pin, before they were grafted with Sauvignon Blanc to make Le Petit cheval Blanc.

Given its dominance across the region, the most common single varietal wine is Merlot. The most famous Bordeaux appellation for Merlot is Pomerol, followed by Saint Emilion. Château Petrus is 100% Merlot. Nearby Le Chemin de Pomerol by Francois Despagne, the brilliant owner wine maker at Saint Emilion first growth Château Grand Corbin Despagne makes delicious organic 100% Merlot which is more affordable, but difficult to find with its tiny production of 3 500 bottles. 

Chateau Le Chemin Pomerol

In Saint Emilion, Château Bellevue, made by the team at Château Angelus, is 100% Merlot. The nearby, and often unjustly overlooked, appellation of Fronsac is an excellent Merlot terroir, look out for Sally Evans‘ Château Georges 7.

The Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur appellations offer the largest choice of 100% Merlot, in styles varying from light and fruity to barrel aged, all at excellent value for money. So many to choose from, Château Lestrille is a favourite.

Chateau Lestille, 100% Merlot Bordeaux Supérieur.


100% Cabernet Sauvignon  

You will occasionally find a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux Supérieur too, but it’s the left bank, in particular the Medoc, that is the land of Cabernet thanks to the deep gravels found along the Gironde Estuary. Since 1995, Château Sociando Mallet in Haut Medoc has made a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon Cuvée Jean Gautreau, a fitting tribute to the property’s owner who sadly died in 2019 at the grand age of 92. 

Cuvee Jean Gatreau from Chateau Sociando Malet

Also on the left bank, young wine maker Marielle Baissas makes a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from vines in the Graves at her family estate Château Haut Rigal.

100% Cabernet Franc 

Top Saint Emilion properties Château Angelus, Le Dome and Château Cheval Blanc all have a high percentage of Cabernet Franc. Percentages seem to be increasing across the appellation where Cabernet Franc thrives on the clay and limestone soils.  

You can find 100% Cabernet Franc in the Entre deux Mers at Château de Bel (and 100% Muscadelle) and since 2016 Château Fleur Haut Gaussens has made a 100% Cabernet Franc Cuvée la Bergeronnette.

100% Petit Verdot is traditionally used in small percentages in Médoc blends, although recent vintages seem to see an increase, due in part to better canopy management and perhaps the warmer summers. 

Château Moutte Blanc is passionate about Petit Verdot, which makes up 30% of the tiny 5.5 ha property that covers three appellations; Bordeaux Supérieur, Margaux and Haut Medoc. Their Cuvée Moisin Haut Medoc is 100% Petit Verdot. 

Château Belle-Vue also a Cru Bourgeois Exceptional in the Haut Médoc, produces a 100% old vine Petit Verdot, alongside its classic blend.

100% Carmenère.

Carmenère is a rare find in Bordeaux but Château Recougne, a Bordeaux Supérieur near Fronsac makes a 100% Cuvée Carmenère

100% Malbec 

Malbec is also known as Pressac in Bordeaux, there is even a Château de Pressac in Saint Emilion, although Malbec only makes up a symbolic 1% of their blend. 

Chateau de Pressac Grand Cru Classé de Saint Emilion

Further north, Chateau Madeleine Bouhou in Blaye produces La Petite Madeline and Château Fleur Haut Gaussens  “La Viminiére” both single  Malbecs.

La Petite Madelaine de Chateau Magdeleine Bohou

White.

It is easier to find single varieties in white than in red. Sauvignon Blanc was the first grape variety that Bordeaux producers were allowed to mention on a front label. The Entre deux Mers offers an abundance of choice and value. 

100% Sauvignon

There are a few 100% Sauvignon Blanc in the prestigious Pessac Léognan, known for it’s classified white wines. Chateau Rochemorin from the Andre Lurton stable is a favourite. 

Although the Medoc doesn’t have a specific white appellation many top vineyards here produce a white wine. This is not a new trend, Château Margaux was producing ‘Chateau Margaux vin de Sauvignon’ back in the 19th century. They continue to make the 100% Sauvignon Blanc, sold since the 1920s as Pavillon Blanc. Try the 100% Sauvignon from Château Corconnac in Haut Medoc.  

Blaye is an underestimated white appellation, where  Château Mon Conseil Gazin makes a Blaye Cotes de Bordeaux blanc 100% Sauvignon Blanc. 

Monconseil Gazin, 100% Sauvignon Blanc from Blaye Cotes de Bordeaux

Château Bauduc produces a 100% Sauvignon, a 100% Semillon as well as a classic blend. Order all three and blind taste to see if you can identify them.

Château Bauduc Sauvignon Blanc, back and front labels

100% Sauvignon gris

Another variety growing in popularity thanks to the complexity it brings to a blend, but I haven’t come across many Sauvignon Gris single varietal wines. 

Co-operatives in Bordeaux are excellent sources of single varietal wines. They account for a remarkable 25% of Bordeaux production. Working with many, often-smaller growers they have a large palette to play with so there’s plenty of choice.  Producta produce Grain de Lune 100% Sauvignon Gris. Château Moulin de Launay produces both a 100% Sauvignon Gris and a 100% Muscadelle (see below) in the Entre deux Mers. I recommend going to their site to see the animated description of the different varietals in all their cuvées. 

100% Semillon is more often associated with the sweet white wines of Bordeaux in Barsac and Sauternes. Château Climens, 1st growth of Barsac,  is planted in 100% Semillon, and it is also the variety used exclusively for their new dry white Asphodele.

Asphodele 100% Semillon from Chateau Climens in Barsac

The top Cuvée Madame de Château Coutet, also a Barsac 1st growth is 100% Semillon and La Semillante, the dry white wine from Sauternes first growth Château Sigalas Rabaud is 100% Sémillon, one of the first in Bordeaux. 

La Cuvée Madame 100% Semillon Barsac from Chateau Coutet and below La Semillante 100% dry Semillon from Chateau Sigalas Rabaud

100% Muscadelle

Nobody’s perfect 100% Muscadelle from Monfaucon Estate

As well as Château Moulin de Launay I mentioned above, Co-operative  Producta produce 100% Muscadelle, but my favourite is  Nobody’s Perfect from Château de Monfaucon made from organic vines on the edge of the Dordogne river in Entre deux Mers by renegade Dawn Jones Cooper. She also makes a 100%  Sauvignon, a  Semillon and a Chardonnay – not a Bordeaux of course. 

Muscadelle de Chateau Moulin de Launay

Co-ops go wild

I mentioned co-ops above, The Univitis group, a large Co-op that covers the whole of the South West, has a  Wild Selection’ range. all Bordeaux appellations, it includes 100% Sauvignon; Semillon, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and 100% Cabernet Franc Rosé. They are all sourced from Château Les Vergnes. The chateau is farmed sustainably with the Bee orchard and HVE (Haut Valeur Evironmental) certificates and is in conversion to organic agriculture since 2018. Each bottle carries the image of a different endemic bird found on their vineyard, showing their commitments to the local natural environment.

Some of the wild range of varietal wines from Univitis

Off piste. 

The Entre deux Mers and Bordeaux – Bordeaux  Supérieur come up time and time again in the search for these wines. These less famous appellations, for want of a better word, with their family run properties seem to be more adventurous. Needs must perhaps; competition is tough at this price point. Or does being smaller and independently owned mean an openness to experimentation? 

Les Truffières from Château Thieuley is a perfect example. In Entre deux Mers, alongside their Bordeaux range, the Courcelle sisters produce both a Chardonnay and a Shiraz, not Bordeaux appellation of course, Vin de France but single varietal none the less.

Les Truffieres Syrah and Chardonnay, Vin de France from the Courcelle Sisters

 

 

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A master of wine, and wellness.

I’m thrilled to be able to include Clare Tooley in our women, wine and wellness profiles. Clare has contributed to this blog in the past, including a prescient article about Napa before she knew she would be living there, the challenges of Bordeaux primeur from her previous life in Bordeaux and notes from the beginning of her MW journey. I’m delighted to say that she is now a Master of Wine, as of last month – congratulations Clare.

Clare, could you introduce yourself and your role in the wine and food industry please? 

I’m a wine buyer, English but born in Spain, lived in France and now based in California. I moved from Bordeaux to Napa six years ago and currently source the domestic wine for a number of US national wine clubs including The Wall Street Journal, Laithwaites, Virgin, TCM, NPR and National Geographic. Please watch Clare’s video for TCM here.

What brought you to the business and how long have you worked here? 

When I look back it takes on a fairy-tale glow! I answered a job ad in the Guardian that gave little away other than the fact that a small business in Nottinghill, London, was looking for a French speaker with secretarial skills. At the time, I was languishing in a lonely job as a PA to a professional solo violinist. He was travelling the world while I was left behind shuffling paperwork. I walked into an airy, bohemian loft office for the interview to be met by laughter, beautiful bright people and the sight of a tasting bench groaning with wine samples. And that was that. I knew nothing about wine, but John Armit, Susie de Paolis and Amanda Skinner took me on regardless. I owe them a great deal, the world of wine in fact. 30 years, a million air miles, thousands of bottles and many more bright, beautiful people, here I am.

What do you love most about this business? 

So many things, but especially the people, the curiosity the wines inspire and the surprises along the way.

What does the concept of Wellness mean to you? 

A raft of things, extremely personal, that change as frequently as the weather. Fundamentally, peace of mind and inner strength.

If it’s not indiscreet, how many times do you drink each week and do you limit yourself to a certain quantity of alcohol?

I drink wine most days and limit according to all sorts of things but not necessarily to a rigid rule. I rarely, if ever, drink spirits. 

Has your attitude changed to drinking and wellness over the years? 

Yes, for sure. My attitude to both has changed dramatically as my body, my age, my health, my circumstances and the lives of others around me have changed. Wellness has clearly dictated my attitude to drinking at certain points during the last 30 years, during my pregnancies for instance and the sleepless infant years! And now I am realising how important it is to protect my ‘wellness’. The things I took for granted before as a younger woman are no longer quite so easy to maintain.

But I would also say my attitude to drinking has changed fundamentally as my knowledge of wine has increased. My drinking has been informed by the opportunities and challenges of work and study; more eclectic, more diverse, ‘less’ in order to control, ‘better’ in order to find the grace that exists in good wine.

Do you think the wine trade has changed or is changing its attitude to wellness or drinking culture? 

The ‘wine trade’ covers a multitude of sins and a multitude of great intentions too, of course. I think there is an issue regarding responsibility. Who is responsible for wellness and drinking culture? Is it the individual, the alcohol industry, the government? Are we prepared to control ourselves or must we rely on the nanny state? ‘Wellness’ and ‘Alcohol’ are multibillion-dollar industries after all, so any change in attitude that compromises the bottom line is often sidestepped. At best, the wine trade treads carefully and promotes ‘moderation’, at worst it pedals fatuous brands and supports disingenuous marketing. Fundamentally, finding the Promised Land between prohibition and excess is an on-going dilemma for the wine trade; one I can definitely relate to in my personal life!

The good news is we are talking about it. I do think there is a more holistic approach to health and wellbeing within the industry itself, more discussion about our partnerships not just with our environment but also the product and ourselves. More thought going in to it, if you like.  What I find exciting are the many and varied projects within the industry, from farm to table and tank to tower, that lead discussion, research and progress in creating a healthier world and a healthier relationship with alcohol. 

Are there foods you consciously include in your diet? 

The obvious like green vegetables, fresh fruit and fish. Water feels like food when you have been exercising so I count that too. I love salad and can forego red meat. I do look to eat ‘local’ in the general sense – feasting on avocado, mango and Pacific fish here in California for example. Bordeaux was trickier with its glorious bread, chocolatines and cheese, but portions are a great deal smaller in France than over here, which helped.

Are there foods you avoid? 

My battle with carbs, or avoiding them, is endless. Frustrating, as I love them. As someone who loves great cooking and beautiful meals, but has an unhealthy relationship with her weight, I think about food all the time! I try and avoid the usual suspects but am acutely aware that the privilege of choosing what you eat and when you eat, is exactly that, a privilege. I try and honour that. There is such joy and celebration to be found in shared meals and some can and should be more ‘gourmand’ than others. 

Do you take any supplements? Which ones? 

No

What are your biggest diet challenges?  

Trying to avoid ‘the munchies’ … a hangover from years of real, bone-aching tiredness from sleepless infants, endless work travel and jetlag.

Do you exercise?

Yes, every day. Covid lockdown and the closure of my local gym, led to an investment in a Nordic treadmill and the utterly brilliant Ifit series. I now run all over the world, in my garage. It is a total joy. I am not a ‘runner’ but found real solace in training for a half marathon to raise money for charity after the death of my mother many years ago. I have associated running ever since with finding peace, building strength, finding courage, letting go. My workout is really a work-‘in’!

What are your biggest challenges to staying fit and healthy in your job?

Wine!! My love of it and the food associated and necessary to accompany it. Before lockdown there were professional tastings, lunches, dinners, late nights, long days and travel. This last year has probably been one of the fittest and healthiest for me, physically if not mentally. And there’s the rub. While my professional lifestyle over the years challenged my waistline and left little time keep fit, the mental stimulation and privileges that came with it – fine wines, great company, superb food prepared by someone other than me – made me mostly happy. And there’s real health to be found in happiness.

How do you overcome them? 

I listen much more to my body now than I used to. I look for fresh air whenever and wherever I can. I drink water. I take breaks. I run. I pick my battles. I remember what I love most about my job and make sure I do some of that every week, even and especially in the weeks when the less interesting stuff piles up. So for me that includes tasting new wines and listening to a supplier’s story. I also treasure the stolen moments between work and family life, which is when I write my own pieces. (see Clare’s latest piece on Tim Aitkin’s blog here). But when I’m really challenged or in need of a break, I turn to my husband, my boys and our menagerie of animals. With them on and by my side, I can overcome anything.

Do you set yourself goals, and do they help in your aim to stay well? 

I set myself a lot of goals but recognise that the swerves in life come thick and fast. You never know when they will knock you off course. There is always joy in those swerves, if sometimes deeply hidden. But yes, I think goals do help. Apart from anything else, they give me something to look forward to. I see the promises I make myself are like gifts and are an important part of wellness. 

Women in your industry

Does that fact you are a woman help, or is it a hindrance in business or is it now irrelevant? If so how would you pinpoint the changes? 

I think there have been as many instances where being a woman has helped me as there have been difficult moments. The latter are simply harder to forgive and forget. I am not proud of that answer and I think there is still a long way to go within our industry.

Being a woman in business is not irrelevant. It can still be fraught and there are still too many examples of poor behaviour, even abuse, which are shameful and totally unacceptable in our industry. We should not be afraid to champion differences; I simply worry that it can dominate the narrative. I would rather we spoke of excellence, of quality, of grace and progress and that our message was one of equality. 

I have been supported from day one by extraordinary women within the industry. I have equally been supported by extraordinary men. I hope to use whatever advantage my longevity within the trade has given me to support others. I will only use my gender, with the specific, personal experience it has given me, when relevant. 

Change is a continuum; it comes with education, confidence and by example. 

As you’ve lived and worked in different countries, do you think these attitudes change with geography?

Yes, I do. I have lived in three different countries and witnessed three different attitudes and opportunities. I have travelled in a buying and selling capacity to dozens more and seen ugly misogyny, bias and racial prejudice at work. However, I still consider the world of wine to be wonderfully, weirdly diverse. The culture shock is real. I happen to love that and while there have been situations when I have felt disconcerted, humiliated even, there have been other moments of empowerment. The trick perhaps is to recognize the emotion, dig a little deeper and move on and away stronger and more confidently.  

How to you cope with wellness pressures when you travel, for business? (Ahem remember business travel?)

I am not a good sleeper at the best of times so for me, business travel has always been exhausting. I rely on melatonin but also the adrenaline of being somewhere different, having to perform, drawing energy from the people and places I am visiting. I remember a buying trip to South Africa in the early stages of pregnancy when I would get up really early to combat the morning sickness. I then crawled back to the hotel room later in the day, foregoing the lovely offers of dinner from suppliers, and ordered toast and peanut butter from room service which was all I craved! I remember a Bordeaux En Primeur week that involved an awful lot of Digestive biscuits when I was expecting my second child. You cope. You find a way. You listen to what you really need. You drink a lot of water. You hope one day you’ll be able to write a book about it! 

If you had just one or two top tips for women wanting to stay well what would they be?

STOP AND LISTEN to your body. Your body is extraordinary. Love it like the precious thing it is. Laugh a LOT. Dance whenever you can. Have plenty of sex. Oh, and treat yourself, don’t cheat yourself.

Is there anything else you would like to share about the role of women in the drink business or about wine and health in general? 

There are plenty of excellent female role models today, but the industry can always use more. Be tenacious. I think we continue to work hard, grab the opportunities that come along, sidestep the pitfalls and look out for each other. Be an ally. 

Finally, a piece of advice I was given by a wonderful woman at Laurent Perrier during a halcyon Champagne Academy week in 2004: ‘Keep your bubble count high’. Words to live by. 

You can follow Clare on twitter, instagram or connect with her on LinkedIn

If you enjoyed this post,   please  sign up here  to receive future blog posts directly to your inbox. If you would like to read more about Bordeaux, buy your copy of Bordeaux Bootcamp here, to learn more about Wine and Wellness, buy a copy of  The Drinking Woman’s Diet here. Enjoy the read.

Sunset in Cerons.

Château de Cerons is a unique property. It’s fitting then that they have produced a unique wine, a release I hinted at, a few months ago. 

Niche . Their wines were already niche. Cérons is the smallest appellation in Bordeaux, with only 7 producers on 30 ha, although not all of this is dedicated to producing this sweet wine. As it is so climate sensitive, the harvest varies dramatically from vintage to vintage. It is difficult and laborious to harvest, to produce and to sell. Which I find shocking, as it is one of the best value wines in Bordeaux. 

Cerons or Ciron?  Cerons is just North of Barsac along the Garonne River, gaining its own appellation in 1936. The name comes from the Ciron River that runs through Sauternes and Barsac. It used to run right through Cerons before it shifted over time to fall into the Garonne River at Barsac. 

The Ciron, running into the Garonne at Barsac.

It is this small, fast running, cool brook that is responsible for the microclimate in this south-western corner of Bordeaux. The thermal shock as it runs into the Garonne, gives rise to morning mists that in turn encourage the development of Botrytis Cinera or noble rot producing the fabulous Golden wines of Sauternes, Barsac and yes Cerons, as well as the right bank appellations of Loupiac, Cadillac and Saint Croix du Mont.  

The golden wines of Château de Cérons.

Building on history.

Château de Cerons was built in the 17th century, on a limestone terrace overlooking the Garonne River by the Marquis de Calvimont, whose name adorns a range of Graves wines from the property. 

Chateau de Cerons

The property remains suspended in time, this is not a wealthy appellation and investment has been prioritised in the vines and the cellars rather than the house. The result being nothing has been spoilt. As you enter the main entrance you are walking on the same flagstones that the Marquis would have walked on. In the 1950s, Roger Henri Expert restored the beautiful original plasterwork. An architect and decorator, he spent a lot of time here at his sister’s property drawing inspiration for many of his creations, including the fountains of the Jardins du Trocadéro in Paris. Alongside this elegance, the wine cellar is one of the oldest in Bordeaux, the earth floors keeping the humidity needed for the 24-36 months barrel ageing of the Cérons wines. 

The entrance call with the original flagstones and plasterwork.

Caroline and Xavier Peyromat took over the family estate in 2012. Their respect for the family heritage is palpable; they are slowly bringing this listed historic monument back to its former 17th century glory. These details are why Château de Cérons is a star of our wine and design tour.

The wines. 

Of the 30 hectares of vines at Château de Cérons, just five are dedicated to producing Cérons AOC. The village is within the Graves region, allowing them to make red and white wines under the Graves appellation, unlike neighbouring Barsac and Sauternes who must use Bordeaux for anything other than sweet production – more of which in a future post. 

Fun wines wit funs labels, La Quille Graves and Rosé.

Despite their respect of tradition, they are no strangers to innovation. In 2014 they introduced La Quille. Quille means skittle (as in bowling), a local slang word for a bottle of wine. They thought this rather disrespectful term would be a fun name for their entry-level range of Graves red, white and Bordeaux rosé and it has been successful both at home and abroad particularly in the US. 

Citrus and orange notes 

As they prepared for the 2020 harvest, the Perromats and the château oenologist, Julien Belle, came up with the idea of an orange wine. Perhaps lockdown meant time for reflection and innovation? There has to be some silver linings. 

They wanted to take a new look at the possibilities of their terroir. The team already has experience in dry white, sweet white, red and rosé wine making, so why not another colour?

 Coucher du soleil, the new Orange wine from Bordeaux.

Rather than the Sémillon that dominates the blend of the Cerons, Coucher du Soleil is a blend of 50% Sauvignon Blanc and 50% Sauvignon Gris. The grapes are harvested at dawn, to preserve the aromas and the freshness of carefully selected plots of 25 year-old vines. The white grapes are fermented like a red; fermenting on the skins for 5 weeks, with daily punching down. Unlike many orange wines, they were keen to protect the wine from oxidation, vinifying and ageing for a short time in stainless steel to protect the signature freshness, minerality and aromas of that Cérons limestone terroir. 

It is a gorgeous colour, not a typical orange wine, thanks to the lack of oxidation, but yellow with orange hints. It has the signature citrus nose of Sauvignon with an elegant touch of bitter orange and a long finish that gives it that important food friendly flexibility. 

A picnic in the grounds of Château de Cérons, the perfect opportunity to match food with the wines of the property.

Coucher de Soleil it’s the perfect illustration that diversification and innovation can work hand in hand with heritage and history. The wine is in limited production, just 900 bottles in 2020 and destined for sale in mainly independent wine shops, on their on line store and French restaurants (when they open again!) where chefs are starting to have fun with wine and food matching. It world really well with lightly spiced food and Asian cuisine, great with hard aged cheeses such as Mimolette and Comté. The Perromats are drinking it as an apéritif on it’s own at sunset.

A perfect aperitif.

If you enjoyed this post,   please  sign up here  to receive future blog posts directly to your inbox. If you would like to read more about Bordeaux, buy your copy of Bordeaux Bootcamp here, to learn more about Wine and Wellness, buy a copy of The Drinking Woman’s Diet hereEnjoy the read.

What’s in a name?

How do Bordeaux chateaux get their names? There are over 8 000 properties in Bordeaux and each one needs to make a name for themselves, but how did these names come to be?

The importance of place.  

The place or village often features in a chateau name. Bages, a village on the outskirts of the town of Pauillac, now a wine tourism destination thanks to Jean-Michel Cazes, is a perfect example. Château Lynch Bages is the best known but there is also Château Croizet Bages and Château Haut Bages Liberale all fifth growths in the 1855 Classification but also Cordeillan Bages which is better known as a Relais & Château hotel and restaurant.

Château Margaux is at the heart of the Margaux appellation; lesser-known eponymous Château de Cerons is the main producer of Bordeaux’s smallest appellation.

Golden Chateau de Cerons,

Terroir.

Place means terroir, the Graves appellation is defined by its soil, graves means gravel. in French. Château Ducru Beaucaillou is another example; caillou means pebble, beautiful pebble says it all. No false modesty here! 

Place also means topography, in the humid maritime climate of Bordeaux, where drainage is all-important, any hillside, especially in the flat lands of the Medoc, is premium. A slope means quality terroir to be proudly included in the name.

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The gravel slopes of ‘La hite’ at Chateau Lafite

Château Lafite, comes from an old French word ‘la hite’ or hill. Neighbouring Château Mouton Rothschild, despite the iconography around rams, has nothing to do with sheep grazing the vineyard. ‘Mout’ is another world for hill, as is ‘Cos’ in neighbouring Château Cos Labory and Château Cos d’Estournel and ‘mothe’ as in Château Lamothe Bergeron and ‘tertre’ in Château du Tertre or Château Tertre Roteboeuf.

Haut, meaning high, is another give away. Château Haut BaillyChâteau Haut Brion, Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte (high hill in case you didn’t get the memo!) all underline the importance a few extra metres of elevation brings to both drainage and sun exposure. 

Château d’ Aiguilhe, built in the middle ages on the edge of the limestone plateau of Côtes de Castillon, could well takes its name from the sharp stone formations or needles (aiguilhes) found there. 

Château with a view .

The name Château Bellevue (beautiful view) showcases its site on the side of the Saint Emilion hillside, enjoying the beautiful view the elevation brings.   ‘Beau’ or beautiful pops up a lot; there are several Beausejour in and around Saint Emilion, Château Beauregard in Pomerol and Château Beaurivage on the banks of the Gironde Estuary. 

The beautiful view from Chateau Bellevue

Access to rivers was important for transport, Château de La Rivière in Fronsac clearly underlines its situation dominating the Dordogne River. 

Landmarks .

The pigeon tower over looking the Gironde Estuary at Chateau Latour

Hills were important for more than vines, in the hundred years war, lookout towers were built on them to keep an eye out for the enemy. Château Latour is the most famous? The current edifice is more of a dovecote than the original defensive tower on the label, although it is depicted on the label of their Pauillac third label. ‘Tour ‘ is often annexed onto local names, Château Pey de la Tour in the Entre deux Mers, Château La Tour Figeac in Saint Emilion. 

The Moulis appellation takes its name from moulins or windmills on the slightly higher land to the west of the Médoc. Chateau names such as Château Moulin Rouge, Le Moulin de La Lagune, give a nod to the Dutch who drained the area in the 17th century and marking the site of the original mills.

Puy,  meaning well, is also seen on labels Château Grand Puy Lacoste, Château le Puy and Château Puygueraud  and of course Château Bellefontaine or beautiful fountain.

Vanity vineyards. 

Adding your name to a property is nothing new. Château Ausone is named after the Roman poet, Ausonius, who’s 4th century villa was probably on the very same site. 

Château Pape Clément got it’s name when Gaillard de Goth gave the estate to his brother who had just being nominated Pope. He took the name Pope Clement V, and also gave it to the Château. Nearby Château Cabonnieux takes its name from the Carbonius family who cleared and planted the land in the early 13th century. 

In the 17th century, another religious figure, Cardinal Richelieu, built the Château Richelieu in Fronsac and gave it his name and a century later, also in Fronsac, Jean-Baptiste de Richon built Château la Dauphine on the banks of the Dordogne. Instead of naming the chateau after himself, he named it after La Dauphine de France, the wife of the son of King Louis XV commemorating her visit to the property.

The Duke of Épernon, 17th century owner of Château Beychevelle, influenced the name of the chateau. As he was the Admiral of the French fleet, the story goes that as ships sailed past his waterfront estate they would lower their sails as a sign of respect. “baisse voile” (“lower the sails”), became Beychevelle. The chateau label still carries the image of a ship. 

The ship on the label of Château Beychevelle in honor of the admiral.

In 1814, Madame de Gascq sold Domaine de Gascq to Charles Palmer. They met in a carriage between Bordeaux and Paris when he was returning to London from the Peninsular Wars. Major General Palmer gave his name to the property increased it’s size and reputation.  By 1843 he had run out of money and was forced to sell the property, the new owners kept the name Château Palmer in his honour.


Château Talbot
 bears the name of another British Military hero; Connetable Talbot who was killed in 1453 at battle of Castillon. There is no record of him having any link to the property, Castillon is a long way from Saint Julien, but it remains a very popular wine in the UK market. 

Many more Anglo-Saxon names, illustrate the love affair of the British for claret.  In 1720, Scottish merchant George Smith added his name to Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte. Château Barriere, was renamed Château Brown by Scottish wine trader, John Lewis Brown, in 1795. He also added his name to his other property, Château Cantenac Brown in the village of Cantenac in Margaux.  

Wine Geese.

‘The Wine Geese’ is used for the Irish who left Ireland over the years for France, Spain and Portugal to make wine and spirits. Lynch, Barton, Kirwan, Phelan, Clarke are all familiar Bordeaux names. 

I imagine dashing Irish men wooing the Bordelaises, taking chateaux as dowries and adding on their names. At Château Kirwan, Mark Kirwan married the daughter of Bordeaux negociant Sir John Collingwood at the end of the 18th century. She took his name and so did the family chateau. 

Bernard O’Phelan was a young Irish wine merchant from Tipperary who married a Guestier daughter, another well-known negociant. He created Château Phelan Segur in Saint Estèphe. His son Frank inherited and improved the estate. The second wine of the property, Frank Phélan, still carries his name. 

Frank Phelan, the second wine of Chateau Phelan Segur.

The charm of the Irish is irresistible, as anyone who has had the pleasure of meeting Anthony Barton will attest. I hasten to add ‘French Tom’, Barton’s ancestor bought his vineyards, Château Leoville Barton and Château Langoa Barton rather than marrying into them. The family has continued the tradition buying a Château Mauvesin Barton in Moulis to add to their portfolio in 2011.

Bourgeoisie or aristocracy? 

Until the French revolution, land was mainly in the hands of the church or the aristocracy, so it’s not surprising to see noble names on labels. Margaux has two ‘Marquess’. Château Marquis d’Alesme and Château Marquis de Terme. Yet another dowry story, when Miss Ledoux d’Emplet married the Marquis de Terme in 1762, he changed the name of the estate to his own. 

Further north, the Pichon Properties also bear noble names. Thanks to the newly introduced Napoleonic laws, Château Pichon Comtesse was the part of the property inherited by the daughters and Château Pichon Baron was the part inherited by the sons.

The Cru Bourgeois originates from ‘people of the ‘bourg’ or town. The term was used before the creation of the classification in 1932. In the 17th century, it was wealthy traders from the city of Bordeaux that paid for the Dutch to drain the peninsular and then bought the land, planted it and exported the wines around the world creating its reputation. 

A religious experience

The right bank has a concentration of religious names. Saint Emilion comes from Aemilianus, a Benedictine monk from Brittany who moved there in the 8th century, to live as a hermit in a limestone cave. His holy reputation spread and by the 12th century there was an important religious order here and the largest monolithical church in Europe. So much for a hermit’s life, it was great for the wine though. 

Pomerol 

The name Pomerol comes from the apple (pomme) orchards here before the vineyards. In the 12th century, Pomerol, was a stop off point on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. The knights of Saint-Jean of Jerusalem, Rhodes and Malta were given land here to welcome pilgrims. As well as hospitality they of course offered  the Pomerol wines.

You will see the iconography of the Maltese cross, and the name croix and also the scallop shell, the pilgrim’s symbol, on many labels. Château Gazin is probably located on the site of the “Hospital of Pomeyrols’ the inspiration for their second wine “l’Hospitalet de Gazin”.

Names bearing Eglise (church) and Croix (cross) are common, underlining the link between the church and the land such as  Château Eglise Clinet, Château la Croix and  Clos l’Eglise. Château Angelus takes its name from being able to hear the angelus bell tolls from three neighbouring churches. Château l’Evangile has a distinctly religious name. Created by the Léglise family in the 18th century, it was renamed  by new owners in the 19th century. 

Further afield

Religious orders owned vines throughout the region. Prieuré means priory, at Château Prieuré Lichine the wine is made in the old priory behind the church of Cantenac in Margaux to which its previous owner added his name.

The religious prolongs of Chateau La Mission Haut Brion showcases in the recent renovations.

Château La Mission Haut Brion was given to the Lazarists, also known as Priests of the mission, hence the name and neighbouring Château Carmes Haut-Brion was also gifted to the Carmelites by the owners of Haut Brion. 

For the birds. 

The grape variety Merlot, originated in Bordeaux taking its name from Merle, or blackbird, because of the skin colour and because of the birds seen eating them. Château Péby Faugères in Saint Emilion might not carry the name of the bird, but the Lalique bottle has a beautiful embossed blackbird sitting amongst grapes, illustrating the high percentage of merlot in this Saint Emilion Grand Cru. 

The name of the dry white wine of Château Clarke is Merle Blanc, a rare bird indeed. 

Names like Château Chantegrive (thrush) and Château Chante l’Oiseau (bird) in the Graves, Château Cantegrive in Castilllon, Château Chante Alouette (lark) in Saint Emilion and Château Cantemerle in Haut Médoc all reflect the bucolic locations of the vineyards. Or do they? Another story is that Cantemerle comes from the big black cannon known as a merle, used in the hundred years war at the site of the original chateau near the estuary. A less romantic song than that of the birds! 

Going for a song, great value Cerons from Chateau de Chantegrive.

I love these backstories, as do wine tours guests. It’s the stories of the people and places behind the products that keep people coming back to Bordeaux. That and the wine. I’ve only scratched the surface here, I could go on, and I probably will in a future post. If you have your own favourites stories please share them below, or if there any you’d like me to research, let me know.

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Six new projects to look forward to when you come back to Bordeaux.

COVID-19 lockdown and travel bans have changed tourism and wine tourism is no exception. In a previous post, I argued that Bordeaux wine tourism is perfectly modelled for the ‘new normal’, specialising in small, secure private tours rather than large groups. Happily, feedback from colleagues in wine tourism shows clients are keen to come back as soon as they safely can. 

There’s a silver lining. With no, or very few, visitors it is the perfect opportunity for properties to do renovation work and reorganise. Here are six projects in progress (or just finished) worth coming back for when things open up. 

Château Haut Bailly.

The brand new cellar of Château Haut Bailly came into operation for the 2020 harvest last autumn. As of next spring, visitors will be able to experience this amazing piece of technical expertise and architecture for themselves when they visit the property. The stunning design links the natural environment to the cellar with its views over the vines.You can see the work behind the cellar in the You Tube video here and a glimpse of the finished project on their instagram account.

Chateau Haut Bailly.

The new cellar has liberated more space in the old installations to receive guests for visits, lunches, dinners and seminars. 

Château Haut Brion.

Domaines Clarence Dillon are reassessing the way they welcome guests. Chateau Haut Brion and neighbouring La Mission Haut Brion welcome nearly 10 000 visitors a year but have to turn down many more as demand has outstripped what their current structure can offer. 

Last year they announced they would be opening their doors to a larger public. Originally wanting to open a new visitor experience last autumn, this has been pushed back to the spring (hopefully).  

They plan to include an on-premise shop, a first for the group.  It’s a great idea, my guests often leave frustrated they can’t buy after a visit and tasting. Yes, you can get the wines elsewhere in Bordeaux or even back home, but there something special about bringing a wine home directly from the chateau cellar. Another plus is all the wines from the group will be available to taste, including their Saint Emilion property Château Quintus.

The wines from the Domaines Clarence Dillon will be available to buy directly from the new tasting rooms.

 They will maintain the element of privacy though with private dining rooms and cellar tastings available.

They have form; their beautiful two-starred Michelin restaurant in Paris, Le Clarence, opened in 2015 just off the Champs Elysée. Although the restaurant is currently closed, should you be in Paris, they are offering a very up market ‘take-away’ selection.

Château Langoa and Leoville Barton

Château Langoa Barton, is also busy renovating both their vat room and barrel cellars where the wines of both Château Langoa and Chateau Leoville Barton are made and aged. Closed to visitors during the work, they are able to offer visitors a tasting of their wines at the third family property Château Mauvesin Barton in nearby Moulis. Future plans to welcome visitors may well include a restaurant in the 18th century buildings, on the opposite side of the road, but first things first, the technical cellars so probably not until 2024 – something to look forward to. 

The icon cellar of Château Langoa Barton us under renovation.

Château Pichon Baron.

Château Pichon Baron are also making the most of downtime to renovate. They started work on renovating both the technical buildings and the visitor centre at the end of last year with the new cellar operational in 2022. 

The cellar will have smaller vats, both wood and stainless steel, and the tasting room will be elevated so visitors have a view of both the vines and the beautiful 19th century chateau. There will be a new wine cellar to hold the Château wine collection and more space to receive larger groups – when that is allowed again.  

The beautiful Chateau Pichon Baron will be easier to admire from the new visitor centre.

There’s new from the right bank too. Nearly 50% of visits to Bordeaux include Saint Emilion; the beautiful medieval town is a big pull, as are the UNESCO heritage vineyards surrounding it.

Château Troplong Mondot.

Château Troplong Mondot completely renovated their cellars in 2019 including the guest suites next to the chateau.  They are ready to receive guests again alongside the two bedroomed cottage in the vines. They will re-open their award winning restaurant Les Belles Perdrix this year and were already inviting select groups for sneak previews of  Chef David Charrier’s skills in private dining experiences. 

A tour though the vines in a Land Rover, followed by a picnic lunch in the vines also prepared by the same in-house Chef David Charrier.  

Village des terroirs. 

Both Saint Emilion and Bordeaux have always overshadowed the neighbouring town of Libourne. It is also a historic waterfront town, but on the banks of the Dordogne where it is joined by the l’Isle river. The town was run-down for years but still had the charm of the riverside location and the beautiful Abel Surchamp square which hosts probably the best regional farmers’ market, three times a week.  

The Libourne farmers’ market

Recent investment on the quayside now welcomes river cruise ships and the re-paving and pedestrianisation of some of the centre is adding life to the centre. 

After his success at redeveloping and relaunching the emblematic Grand Hotel de Bordeaux, now the Intercontinental, Michel Ohayon is turning his attention to Libourne. 

He aims to convert the military barracks at the centre of the town into a wine tourism destination. This seven-hectare site, close to the TGV station, has sat empty for 10 years. Built between 1766 and 1820, it is a historical monument. His project includes a five star hotel and spa, a wine centric commercial centre, a motor museum, a contemporary art gallery, a conference centre and an indoor wine themed park. 

The Villages des terroirs project ©4A architectes

Named Village des Terroirs, it’s an ambitious project, he mentions welcoming six million visitors per year. For comparison, the very successful Cité du Vin in Bordeaux, on the banks of the Garonne, welcomed half a million visitors in 2019 (2020 doesn’t count!). 

Don’t rush; work is unlikely to start until 2023, pending planning permission, although the town hall that co-hosted a recent press conference announcing the project seems keen. Something else to plan ahead for.

Want to read more?  Please  sign up here  to receive future blog posts directly to your inbox. If you would like to read more about Bordeaux, you can buy your copy of Bordeaux Bootcamp here, to learn more about Wine and Wellness, you can buy a copy of The Drinking Woman’s Diet here