Continuing my exploration of Dry White Bordeaux, today we’re in classic white wine country. Known as the cradle of fine Bordeaux thanks to its long history, the Graves region of Bordeaux sits south of the city of Bordeaux, on the left bank of the Garonne River.
The Cradle of fine Bordeaux.
Vineyards were first planted on the edge of Bordeaux city over 2,000 years ago. In the Middle Ages, as the success of Bordeaux grew, with wines shipped to England and then northern Europe, the vineyards extended south into the Graves.
In the 17th century, Graves wines were produced on gravel outcrops, unsuitable for other agriculture but, well drained and warmed by the sun, they were perfect for vines. By the 19th century, the vines reached from the city as far south as far as Langon.
Claret or Clairet?
Up until the 17th century, many wines were produced on heavier soils, or ‘palus’ near the water. The wines were light and acidic, destined mainly for the Dutch and British merchant navies. (It was safer to drink wine on board rather than the water). These lighter red wines were known as Clairet, a version of which is still produced today.
In the 17th century techniques of ‘topping up’ and using sulphur were introduced to protect against oxidation. These more powerful wines, destined for the English market became known as ‘The New French Claret’. Arnaud de Pontac, owner of Chateau Haut Brion, championed this new style of wine in his London Tavern ‘The Pontacs Head’, possibly the first example of direct wine marketing.
These Graves wines dominated Bordeaux production until the 18th century, when, after drainage and investment in the Medoc, the region started to overshadow Graves production.
The problems of odium and Phylloxera in the 19 century and the frosts of 1956 hit the region hard. Added pressure from the expansion of the city reduced the area of vineyards.
A Class act .
Almost 100 years after the 1855 classification that only included one red Graves and no dry whites (although 27 Sauternes and Barsac were included), the Graves growers introduced their own Graves Classification.
Created on 7th August 1953, and completed on 16 February 1959, it differed from the 1855 classification in two important ways. Unlike the five level hierarchy in the 1855 classification, there is only one level in the Graves; you either have it or you don’t. More importantly for our discussion today, it included dry white wines as well as red. There are 16 Chateaux producing 13 red wines and 9 dry white wine, with six lucky ones classified for both.
The classified growths represent about 20% of the volume of production of the appellation and Graves remains the only Bordeaux wine region with a dry white wine classification.
Divide and conquer
All 16 classified Chateau are situated in the Pessac Léognan appellation, even though it did not exist at the time. In 1987 the Graves was divided into two, creating a new ‘communal’ appellation: Pessac-Léognan, taking its rather unpronounceable, name from two villages (or communes’) out of the 10 included in this northern part of the region.
The desire was to identify the historical terroir in the northern Graves but more importantly to protect it from urban sprawl.
Urban vineyards
Chateaux did survive the crisis, it is surprising now to see the green oasis of vines amongst the suburbs of the city that are Chateau Haut Brion, La Mission Haut Brion, Les Carmes Haut Brion, Pape Clement and Haut Brana in Pessac – along side the university buildings and Chateau Luchey Halde and Pique Caillou in Merignac.
Today the global surface of production accounts for over 1,600 hectares. The majority of the great quality terroirs are today placed in zones, which can no longer be built upon.
The two appellations together cover almost 4,000 ha running 60 kilometres from Bordeaux in the North to south of Langon surrounding the Sauternes and Barsac appellations. 240 wine makers produce about 20 million bottles in Graves and about 9 million in Pessac Léognan.
Pessac Léognan represents a third of the surface area and 50% of the turn over with 20% of its production as white wine.
A sense of place.
Graves is the only Bordeaux appellation named after its terroir. In English, Graves means gravel. Layers of poor gravelly and sandy soils have been laid down thanks to the shifting bed of the Garonne river. The area is run through with clay washed down by smaller rivers and streams, tributaries of the Garonne.
It’s not unusual to find multi-coloured quartz, jasper, agate, fossils and flints in the vineyards. At Château Smith Haut Lafitte, they have a diverse collection of stones found amongst their vines.
It is this diversity of soils that make the region as famous for its red as its white, meaning both Cabernet and Merlot flourish here alongside the Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.
Climate.
There are two natural climate regulators, the Garonne to the east, which protects from frost, and the Landes forest to the west, which acts as a barrier from Atlantic storms. In the north Pessac Léognan also enjoys a slightly more moderate microclimate thanks to the proximity of the Atlantic Ocean.
White Graves.
The whites are an elegant blend of Sauvignon Blanc for freshness and aromatic complexity and Semillon, which gives a rich and smooth weight when fermented and aged in oak have the complexity to allow them to mature well.
Graves whites have the reputation of being more complex than the classic Bordeaux Blanc. Where does this complexity come from?
The terroir of course, but vines tend to be cropped lower, increasing concentration, and are often barrel-fermented and aged. Fermenting and ageing white wines in oak adds roundness and structure to the wine. Stirring up the wine in the barrels, bringing the lees* back into suspension, helps protect the wine from oxidation and gives roundness to the mouth feel and reinforces the wonderful ageing potential of Sémillon.
Five White Graves to try.
My very first visit to Bordeaux, in the early eighties, was to the Graves, more precisely to Pessac Léognan. I was visiting from Paris for my thesis on Bordeaux marketing. The owner of Chateau Carbonnieux, Antony Perrin, along with Jean-Jacques de Bethmann of Chateau Olivier and Bernard Thomassin of Chateau de France each took the time to explain in detail, to a foreign student, the workings of the system of the Bordeaux market place ‘La Place de Bordeaux’.
Sadly, none of these gentlemen are still with us today but their wines are and their legacy continues with their children continuing to make great wines.
Pessac Léognan
Some of the top classified growth of Pessac Léognan can be pricey, but not all. Château Olivier is a personal favourite that still remains good value, although the word seems to be out now so prices are deservedly creeping up. This romantic, moated property bear witness the history of the region. Dating back to the Middle Ages, it has belonged to the de Bethmann family since the 19th century, and is classified for both white and red. The white hovers around 75% Sauvignon, which the barrel fermenting and aging on the lees rounds out beautifully.
Château Carbonnieux is another ancient estate, founded in the 13th century by Benedictine monks. The bottle is easily recognisable by its scallop shell motive, the symbol of pilgrims on their way to Saint Jacques de Compostella. Both an historical monument and a family home, it was in a sorry state when purchased by the Perrin familyafter the tragic frost of 1956. They have restored both the Château and the reputation of the wines. Classified for both the red and the white, this large, 170 hectare estate is farmed sustainably and almost half the surface area is under white, 35% Semillon for 65% Sauvignon.
Not all Pessac Léognan is classified, hidden amongst the famous names are gems to be discovered. Château de France is one. Just 10% of the vines are under white grapes. 80% Sauvignon and barrel aged they are worth looking out for.
Graves
Not enjoying a classification, the Graves whites tend to be more affordable which makes them all the more exciting to search out.
Château de Seuil is in Podensac, at the limit of Barsac. Just under six ha of this Graves property is dedicated to organically farmed white vines. Made by the Welsh – New Zealand owners, the Sauvignon Sémillon blend is stainless steel fermented and aged on the lees also in stainless steel to keep its freshness and vibrancy.
In the 1990’s, Denis Dubourdieu at the Bordeaux Faculty of Oenology discovered the secrets behind the he aromatic complexity of Sauvignon Blanc, become known in Bordeaux as the ‘Pope of white wines’ and is credited with the dramatic recent increase in quality. Clos Floridene is one of his family vineyards, now run by his sons. When the family bought the property in 1982, it was just two hectares of old Sémillon and Muscadelle, it has grown over the years and now also produces a red Graves. For me, the dry white remains the star, stunning and excellent value. A suitable tribute to the man responsible for the rebirth of quality dry white Bordeaux.
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* Lees are the deposits that fall to the bottom of a barrel during fermentation and ageing, made up mainly of dead yeast cells produced during fermentation. Lees are protein; as they breakdown giving that feeling of fatness they also protect the wine from oxidation.
Title picture, a snowscape of the vineyards of Château Olivier.
