Château de Ferrand – a bigger picture

There’s a  light-hearted welcome at Château de Ferrand. A huge sculpture of a chewed Bic pen top (we’ve all been there) by Julien Gudéa waits by the entrance. It’s a brilliant introduction to a property that integrates history, innovation and art without taking itself too seriously. 

Guests, including yours truly, just can’t resist playing with the chewed pen sculpture

Elie de Bétoulaud built the chateau in 1702, as a homage to Louis XIV. Sadly, the French King never made it to Château de Ferrand, and Elie de Bétoularud never met his hero, dying on his way to his meeting with Louis XIV. He left the chateau to the Marquis de Mons, and it remained the sleeping beauty of the family until 1978, when Baron Bich, creator of the Bic® pens (and so much more), purchased it.

Since 2010, his daughter, Pauline Bich Chandon-Moët and her husband Philippe have brought Château de Ferrand firmly into the 21st century with important and design-led technical, architectural, environmental and artistic renovations.

In 2012, Chateau de Ferrand was included in the select club of Grand Crus Classés of Saint Emilion.

Natural architecture.

On one of the highest points of Saint Emilion, right on the edge of the limestone plateau, Château de Ferrand enjoys stunning 360° views over a curve in the Dordogne valley. At the heart of the UNESCO Heritage site of Saint Emilion, all cables and telephone wires are buried to preserve these views. This altitude and exposure together with the clay limestone soils, keeps temperatures cool and gives an elegance and tension to the Merlot dominated wines. 

View of the chateau from the park

The chateau is built around a courtyard, with a central gallery running between two wings, one technical, one residential. Visitors pass through this windowed gallery, to reach the park to the west of the estate. It is one of the largest green spaces on prime appellation land not planted with vines. The unique collection of trees dating back over 200 years includes beautiful cedars and an old Cork Oak, well north of its normal habitat. Along with the wooded ridge around the estate, the park is part of ten hectares of woods, thickets and meadows, a kitchen garden and beeshives that all that add to the biodiversity of the estate and their Terra Vitis, ISO 14001 and HVE sustainable agriculture certifications. 

The mysterious limestone galleries

Down the limestone slope from the small hamlet and church, also part of the 42 ha estate, are the mysterious grottos of de Ferrand. These galleries carved out of the hillside are open to the views across the Dordogne Valley. Perhaps they were created for shady afternoon walks or discreet 18th century rendezvous?

Wine and design. 

Thanks to the iconic creations of Baron Bich, the family are intimately connected with design. The Bic Contemporary Art Collection includes over 200 works by international artists curated by Charlotte Bich-Goury du Roslan. They acquire important historical and contemporary works created with, or inspired by, Bic pens and ink. Over 30 works from the collection now grace the walls of the château.

The orangery

In 2019, Pauline and Philippe Bich Chandon-Moët asked interior architects Patrick Jouinet and Sanjit Manku, to create a design-led renovation project that respected the past but opened the property to a future of welcoming guests. 

Local Frontenac limestone (a link to the terroir) and oak (a nod to the barrels) were used in the renovation and creation of new tasting rooms and reception areas as the property turns towards wine tourism. 

The cellar leading into the tasting gallery

Stairs lead up from the 18th century barrel cellar to a tasting gallery overlooking both the vintage in the cellar and the views across the vines and the Dordogne valley. In the château, the Orangery, with its cloud like ceiling, welcomes up to 300 guests, but the very cool rotating tasting bar makes it intimate enough for small groups. The walls of the ‘Salon Bic’ tasting room are covered with a fresco by Alexandre Doucin, drawn uniquely in Bic biro. Bic® Cristal®

The Salon Bic and its hand drawn fresco bringing the park into the tasting room

Cellar art 

Thanks to the iconic creations of Baron Bich, the family are intimately connected with design. The Bic Contemporary Art Collection includes over 200 works by international artists curated by Charlotte Bich-Goury du Roslan. They acquire important historical and contemporary works created with, or inspired by, Bic pens and ink. Over 30 works from the collection now grace the walls of the château.

This summer Château de Ferrand hosts the exhibition l’Humble Bic from the collection of Le Musée de la Création Franche. This museum on the outskirts of Bordeaux, holds the largest collections of works created with Bic pens. As the museum is currently closed for renovation, Château de Ferrand has transformed their barrel cellar into an art gallery showing 62 works created by 24 artists from nine different countries throughout the summer. 

The 18th century barrel cellar as an art gallery

This is firmly on point with their desire to open the chateau to both art and wine lovers. Visits of the vines and cellars are conducted by qualified sommeliers followed by vertical tastings or blending workshops. In-house chef Marilyn Madray creates private lunches, dinners and tasting experiences, served in the dining room surrounded by Bic art, the orangery or on the terrace overlooking the kitchen gardens and park. 

If this all sounds a bit exhausting, don’t worry. The warm welcome extends to overnight stays. The renovation included three elegant en-suite château guest rooms. You can taste, eat and sleep within a work of art. 

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To learn more about Bordeaux, you can find Bordeaux Bootcamp here and to cultivate a healthy passion for wine, watch the free Daily Detox webinar here, buy your copy of The Drinking Woman’s Diet  or discover the new online 7 days to a Liver friendly Lifestyle  here. 

Green, white or gold?  What wine to pair with asparagus.

A common complaint from guests on wine tours is you just don’t get enough vegetables in French restaurants. I disagree, the French eat seasonal and local, visit Bordeaux in spring and every restaurant will be serving you asparagus.

Spring to it

Asparagus is the perfect spring food, fibrous so great for our gut bacteria and slightly bitter so perfect for stimulating the appetite. It also contains vitamins and glutathione – a great detoxer and they are diuretic, perfect for a spring detox after too many Easter chocolates.

Keeping it simple, white asparagus with a mousseline sauce

Blaye, a medieval citadel (fortified town) on the banks of the Gironde Estuary is famous for both its Bordeaux Côtes de Blaye wines and its asparagus. Each April, Blaye holds a spring festival,  lots of wines and lots of asparagus to taste. Thirty asparagus producers covering  200 ha grouped together to create an association that has obtained a IGP ( Indication Geographic Protégé) for their product – similar to an AOP for wine. They even have their own website  and their very own festival a few weeks later.

The Blaye asparagus are white or violet, a little different to the green ones you may be used to. They tend to be fat and juicy, they remain white as they are grown covered in soil – as soon as they are uncovered they become darker in colour. There’s even a ‘confrerie’ where members don violet cloaks and encourage people to eat more asparagus. 

You must be in Bordeaux if they serve duck with your asparagus

What to drink with asparagus?  

It pairs brilliantly with a fresh dry white, think Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon driven blends but it really depends on how you serve it. In Bordeaux traditional preparations include chopped eggs, chives and vinaigrette, often with capers or goats cheese or a more sinful hollandaise sauce which the French lighten and call mousseline – still deliciously indulgent. They sometimes add smoked bacon or cured duck, in which case a lighter red works. Asparagus also accompanies a main dish, think poached salmon, in which case a barrel aged white or a lighter red would work perfectly. 

With spicy prawns – inspiration from Rouge at les Sources de Caudalie

White and gold 

I make no secret of my love of Sauternes, Sauternes and asparagus? I’m not alone in thinking they work together. 

Gold and white, Sauternes and white asparagus

A Medieval military fortress in the 14th century, Château de Fargues has been in the Lur Saluces family since the 1400s. In the shadow of the neighbouring family property Yquem,production concentrated on red wine and milk until the 1920s when Bertrand de Lur Saluces pulled up the red grapes and turned his attention to Sauternes. 

The Domaine d’Uza, near Bayonne, has also been in the family since the 1400s. No wine here but a leading asparagus producer, specialised in organic white Landes asparagus. 

Perfectly suited to the region’s sandy soils, the reputation of their asparagus is almost as famous as their wine and found in top restaurants throughout France. As for Sauternes grapes, the asparagus is carefully hand-picked and selected before rinsing and packing.

Asparagus Grand Cru

If you need some inspiration, visit the website of Château de Fargues, they have recipes from leading chefs for asparagus and so much more to pair with Sauternes.  

Bon Appetit.

If you like food and wine content, especially what to match with veg based cuisine, watch this space. I’ll be sharing a new project where you can fill your boots, and plates. Sign up here to make sure you don’t miss future blog posts. 

To learn more about Bordeaux, you can find Bordeaux Bootcamp here and to cultivate a healthy passion for wine, watch the free Daily Detox webinar here, buy your copy of The Drinking Woman’s Diet  or discover the new online 7 days to a Liver friendly Lifestyle  here it’s spring , the perfect time for a detox!