cru bourgeois – Page 2 – Insider Tasting

August 31, 2015March 12, 2026

A New York State of Gastronomy.

I don’t normally write about food, I write about wine, in particular Bordeaux and even then I rarely share tasting notes preferring to talk about what is happening and what is changing in Bordeaux, leaving tasting to those with better palates or to allow you to make your own conclusions about wines when you taste them yourself.

Today I am making an exception as I had an experience that was as exceptional as it was unexpected, and I just have to share it. Those of you who are hungry, turn away now.

Mid-way through the hectic schedule of a 2 week US lecture tour on behalf of the Wines of Medoc, I had a spare day earmarked for shopping in NYC. As everyone knows, shopping builds up an appetite and wandering back down Madison Avenue, on the look out for a likely place to stop for lunch, I just happened to find myself in front of the Carlyle Hotel.

A light bulb went on and I remembered a wine tour 4 years ago when Chef Mark Richardson with his sister and brother-in-law toured Bordeaux with me. I had missed catching up with Mark once before when he was Executive Chef at the Four Seasons in San Francisco. Just as I planned to taste his fare, he upped and left for the Carlyle. Would I catch him this time? Luck was with me; I popped in hoping to get a table for lunch and I got so much more.

I was welcomed like a long lost friend, ushered to a table amongst the busy lunchtime crowd. The ‘feutré’ atmosphere of the restaurant is reminiscent of a elegant front room decorated with bookshelves and a fireplace, the English theme reinforced by a lot of British accents – the influence perhaps of the recent royal guests?

Mark worked his magic creating a spectacular lunch experience, he said likes to play so I handed myself over to his considerable skill. What a treat. Proving that even in the centre of NYC you can source local ingredients, Chef Mark served up a menu with New York, Asian and European influences.

The menu started with a work of art; local heirloom tomatoes and burrata, beautifully fresh and perfectly seasoned with sourdough crisps. This was followed by Hamachi (yellow tail) tartar served with an Asian vinaigrette, topped with avocado and crunchy toasted breadcrumbs. The contrasting textures and flavours were perfect in both dishes.

The Ricotta gnocchi that followed, served in brown butter and lemon, the citrus notes complemented by a few arugula (roquette) leaves, were cooked to perfection, creamy in the middle. When I asked how they remained so creamy with out having the doughy taste of undercooked pasta, he remarked that they were mainly just ricotta with hardly any flour.

New Jersey Scallops with bacon vinaigrette.

Then New Jersey scallops, impeccably cooked, served with confit aubergine slices, plums and bacon vinaigrette – a perfect paring with red wine – see below.

New York Strip-loin with deep fried green tomatoes.

The finale was the New York strip just seared, meltingly tender over deep fried green tomatoes – a nod to his Kentucky origins.

And the wines? They have an impressive and varied selection by the glass, American and international, but I have to admit I stayed with the French – I’m heading west on the next leg so Californian wines will come.

I couldn’t resist the Sancerre called French Blonde and a glass of Chateau Reysson Cru Bourgeois from the Medoc 2010. It is the Medoc that sent me over here, after all.

The whole experience was remarkable and I was lucky, not just in finding Mark but in finding him just in time. After a year as Executive chef at the Carlyle, he is heading to pastures new, returning to his family in Kentucky to start a new venture.

New York’s loss, Kentucky’s gain!

March 28, 2015February 10, 2021

How authentic is your bottle?

Between the conviction of infamous wine fraud Rudy Kurniawan and the growing market for wines in Asia where counterfeiting seems to be national sport (and not just in wine), authentication of wine has become more and more important.

A recent contribution to the Jancis Robinson blog was an intriguing insight into an affordable way to verify the authenticity of your wine bottle, based on the ‘bobbles’ and other manufacturer markers along the bottom of the bottle. But many Chateaux in Bordeaux and elsewhere have introduced a more secure and personalised approach.

Most bottling lines now include laser engraving with dates and code numbers that allow chateaux to trace their bottles. This offers many advantages; as well as being reassuring for clients, it allows the chateaux traceability in case of quality problems and allows them to trace how their wines got to market.
70% of Bordeaux wine is sold through ‘La Place’, the brokers and negociants. Chateaux do not always know or have contact with the final customer. It is not unusual for Chateaux to work with several different Bordeaux negociant houses, choosing them because of their expertise in particular markets, either geographical or by market sector. They may try and offer semi exclusivities in certain markets and also sometimes qualifying sales with conditions such as not selling to supermarkets.

This is difficult to police in an open market and some markets such as the UK are considered platforms with a lot of the wine being moved on to other markets Asia being a typical destination.
In recent years, undercutting sales prices by some struggling negociants have also perturbed the market, be damaging to the brand image as well as upsetting other clients who are not happy when their final clients boast about finding certain wines on the market place at process lower than they have paid the property. These traceability tools allow the chateau a greater control and understanding of where their bottles are ending up and how they got there. The wine market is not as nebulous as it used to be.

Classified growths are the most likely to be subject to fraud and counterfeiting and they have perfected techniques with a mix of Q codes, authentication codes and special labels. Most Chateaux have a web page where alphanumeric codes from the label can be entered or Q codes can be scanned.

The authentication label on the Château Margaux bottle.

Chateau Margaux even has an app for the authentication and as of 1^st January 2013, all bottles leaving the cellar of Chateau Latour have a bubble tag on the bottle with a unique identification.

Latour bubble tags ready to be added to the bottles.

There are also more traditional, non-digital ways of protecting themselves and their customers against fraud. Château d’Yquem uses a unique paper made by the Banque de France bank note suppliers for their labels that are water marked in a way that cannot be copied.

Printing roll for Yquem label paper — Printing roll for Chateau d’Yquem label paper

First growths are not the only properties investing in high tech authentication. Other Chateaux, such as biodynamic producer Chateau Le Puy in the Cotes de Francs, use the same Prooftag bubble system as Chateau Latour mentioned above.

And it’s not just the chateaux; vintner groups, such as the Cru Bourgeois, issue a defined number of bottle stickers complete with hologram at certification with a unique number that can be typed into the web site or the Q code can be scanned with the app.

The Cru Bourgeois Flash Sticker can be scanned on the smart phone app.

You can now drink younger vintages with confidence. For older vintages however you will still need to rely on a close and trusting relationship with your wine merchant – something always worth cultivating.

October 6, 2014February 10, 2021

Discovering the Medoc with the Cru Bourgeois

September saw exciting news for Medoc fans; not only did the Cru Bourgeois release the news of the new classification of the 2012 vintage, with 267 properties classified, they also confirmed their interest in re-establishing a quality hierarchy that was at the origin of the classification in 1932.

The Cru Bourgeois are a great window on the Medoc. I have just returned from several weeks in the US and used a range of Cru Bourgeois on several occasions to introduce the terroirs that make up this region of Bordeaux. They also encompass the history and the diversity of the region and are examples of the increase in quality and consistency that have characterised Bordeaux wines over recent vintages.

Presenting the Cru Bourgeois to students at Chaplin School of Hospitality in Florida

So what are the Cru Bourgeois exactly? As with most things in Bordeaux, to understand how we got here it’s worth taking a step back and looking at the history behind the story.

It is undeniable that the 1855 classification of Médoc, Graves and Sauternes, represents one of the best marketing coups the wine world has ever seen, even if at the time it wasn’t intentional. Was the Cru Bourgeois Classification created in its shadow? It’s unfair perhaps to think of it of a club for those who didn’t make it in 1855, but it certainly represented, at the time of its creation in 1932, a group of châteaux that may have considered that if that classification had not been written in tablets of stone in 1855, they may well have been included had it evolved further. The 60 Medoc properties included in the 1855 classification out of a total of 1500 represent 22% of the surface area of the Medoc vineyards. (Haut Brion in the Graves and 27 properties in Sauternes and Barsac were also included). For more information about the 1885 classification, I highly recommend consulting Dewey Markham’s seminal tome 1855.

The Cru Bourgeois were officially classified for the first time in 1932, however it has deeper historical roots. It may seem strange to Anglo-Saxons to use the term Bourgeois, perhaps not always considered a compliment? It is however a traditional term that dates back to the Middle Ages. Historically it applied to influential families of Bordeaux rather than the aristocracy, who benefited from exoneration of charges on their land acquisitions; consequently, they purchased the best pieces of land that became available in the Medoc in the 17^th century when the peninsula was drained by the Dutch. This right was granted by the French King to keep the Bordelais on his side against their historical allies (or occupiers depending upon how you look at it), the English.

In 1824 a treatise by Franck identified about 300 Crus Bourgeois in the Médoc pre-dating the 1855 classification. In 1932 Bordeaux’s wine merchants with the Chamber of Commerce officially recognised 444 Crus Bourgeois at three levels of quality : Cru Bourgeois, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur and Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel. In the 60’s a Union des Cru Bourgeois was formed.

The attempt to bring the classification up to date in 2003 with just 247 chateau was challenged and written off, so the new more democratic system came into being as of the 2008 vintage.

So how does it work now? There are 2 steps to becoming a Cru Bourgeois. Even to be considered the wine must already be declared as AOC from one of the 8 Medoc appellations (Medoc, Haut Medoc, Listrac, Moulis, Margaux, Saint Julien, Pauillac or Saint Estephe). The first step is then compliance with quality criteria on the basis of approved specifications, followed by the second step, a blind tasting by professional tasters of all the wines between March and July following bottling.

2010 saw the publication of the first Official Selection for the 2008 vintage (243 Crus Bourgeois). The wines are tasted when bottled and brought to market. In 2011, the 2009 Official Selection represented 246 Crus Bourgeois, the 2010 Official Selection 260 Crus Bourgeois the 2011 Official Selection 256 Crus Bourgeois and the last 2012 official selection 267.

It’s not just about being classified. The Cru Bourgeois procedure approves the quality of only a given volume of wine and provides a guarantee of this quality for the consumer. The Crus Bourgeois du Médoc 2012 are easily identifiable at point of sale, each bottle is authenticated with a sticker with a unique, random number and a ‘Flash code’ – a direct link to a dedicated space for each château on the new website.

The latest classification announced this September is the fifth since the re-oganisation of the system and shows an increase in châteaux that pass the acid test of blind tasting by an independently sourced panel. This all adds up to a total of 146 million bottles released onto the market over five years, of which the quality has been guaranteed. This general increase is in both the numbers and quality of participants but also an increase in reputation of the ‘brand’.

The lack of a hierarchy within this new system means there has been reluctance by some of the previously Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnels to participate. It will be interesting to see if the new stated desire to recreate several quality levels will bring them back into the fold. I hope they do, the Cru Bourgeois are a force to be reckoned with. Last month’s classification of the 2012 vintage covers 4 100 hectares of vines and represents about 30% of the Medoc’s production, that’s 29 million bottles.

How would I sum up the Cru Bourgeois and their classification? Durability with an annual challenge perhaps or, as I found on my tour of the US, a highly accessible and reassuring way to discover the wines of the Medoc. They are accessible in style and, perhaps even more importantly, accessible in price. Showing these wines to the trade and students never failed to ellicit the delighted reaction that wines from the Medoc could be both affordable, available and delicious. Go look for that sticker.

August 18, 2013February 10, 2021

Château la Croizille – The old and the new in Saint Emilion.

The De Schepper family are not new to Bordeaux. They were already established in the liqueur and wine business in Belgium when they purchased their first Bordeaux property, Château la Tour Balaldoz, in Saint Emilion in 1950. This was followed by the purchase of Château Haut Breton Larigaudière, a Cru Bourgeois in Margaux, in 1964. The family history has followed that of Bordeaux, as they first exported wines from their 2 properties in barrel for bottling in Belgium before starting to bottle at the chateaux in 1972.

The entrance to the old limestone quarry at Chateau Tour Baladoz

Their wine portfolio now includes a total of 5 Bordeaux properties and a negociant house De Mour. The most recent acquisition was Château La Croizille in 1996.

Château Croizille can trace its origins to the 1800’s and the purchase was a perfect opportunity for the family as it neighbours Château de La Tour Baladoz. So much so that a visit now includes both of the properties, a fascinating compare and contrast exercise between the very traditional Chateau la Tour Baladoz and the extremely modern Chateau La Croizille.

The view of La Croizille vines from the new tasting room

Since it’s purchase in 1996 work has been concentrated in the vineyard, 5 hectares in a sheltered valley or ‘Combe’ which reaches up to the top of the hill 82 m above sea level planted 70% Merlot 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5 % Cabernet Franc.

The typical Clay-Limestone soil of Saint Emilion.

Late 2012 saw the opening of the spectacular new wine cellar. A project that was subject to some controversy, being built within the UNESCO Heritage site. 2012 was the first vintage made in this gravity fed cellar. Small stainless steel vats and 100% new oak barrels stacked on oxoline frames to facilitate the manipulation for the first years ageing are neatly tucked under the second year cellar and tasting room. The tasting room is suspended above the vineyard with a 180° view across the valley showing perfectly not only how beautiful the rolling hills are in this part of the appellation but also how well they suit vine cultivation with excellent drainage and sun exposure. The design of the new chai is inspired by the clay and limestone terroir so typical of this part of the appellation due East of Chateau Tertre Roteboeuf and Chateau Troplong Mondot.

The first year, new oak barrels on oxoline

As of last October, visitors are welcome to see this view along with the new cellars at Croizille and the more traditional cellars at Baladoz. Perfectly placed between 2 favourite lunch stops, Chateau Troplong Mondot and L’Atelier de Candale, it couldn’t be easier to include in a Saint Emilion itinerary and the latest member of the family to join the team, Hélène de Schepper, will be delighted to welcome visitors to the property.

Here you can see a remarkable contrast between the old and the new in cellar design as well as the wine of course. The packaging, a modern label with the family’s signature, hand wrapped in orange paper, is an indication of their desire to emulate their prestigious neighbours – I wish them luck.

August 2, 2011February 10, 2021

Cru Bourgeois in China and vice versa.

In 2010 32% of Bordeaux wines went to the export markets, up 14% in volume on 2009 that is 235 million bottles for a total turnover of €1.51 Billon (up 17% in value) Increasing quality and quantity – just the message Bordeaux is trying to push.
However the leading markets shifted place a little. The UK lost its dominance with Germany remaining the biggest volume market and unsurprisingly to many, China came in second with an 67% increase in volume for a 121% increase in value and Hong Kong knocked the UK off the top of the value market to second place with 252 million Euros against 227 for the UK.
Asia as a whole purchased 605 million Euros of Bordeaux; 28% of total Bordeaux exports – four times the value of the US market. Hardly surprising therefore to see such a large presence of Asian buyers and commentators at the primeur tastings this spring and again at Vinexpo.
Understandably many producers are looking at the Asian market with great enthusiasm. Belying the idea that the French don’t work in August; The Alliance des Cru Bourgeois with 30 château owners are making their way to China later this month organising tastings and dinners in Shanghai, Canton and Peking to present 90 wines from the official selection of the 2008 vintage.

Tasters at the Cru Bourgeois primeur presentation earlier this year
Just a reminder that 2008 vintage was the first vintage to receive the new annual ‘Reconnaissance de Cru Bourgeois’. Of 290 Châteaux that presented their candidature 243 were given the ‘classification’ in 2010. The selection for the 2009 vintage will be available for tasting in September this year in both Bordeaux and London.

Continuing the theme, earlier this year, Château Laulan Ducos one of the 2008 Cru Bourgeois of the appellation Medoc was purchased by Chinese jeweller Richard Shen whose target market as you can guess, is china.

October 1, 2010February 10, 2021

Unusual vineyard pests

You may have heard of the oedemis butterflys that damage the vines and grapes but rabbits?

As we have had such a dry summer the rabbits are hungry and thirsty and in areas where the soils are light with sandy and gravel, such as the Southern Medoc, they are helping themselves to the harvest

Here’s the proof in the vines at Château Paloumey, Cru Bourgeois from Haut Medoc

And if you don’t believe it’s rabbits – well here’s more proof.
We can control oedemis by sexual confusion, anyone got any great ideas for the rabbits?

July 9, 2010February 10, 2021

Cru Bourgeois – Diversity and value

In all the fury about the 2009 pricing it’s easy to forget that only about 300 properties are involved out of over 10 000 that make up Bordeaux. Fact underlined in the middle of it all at two very different in the Medoc both of which offer excellent value for money wines – even in 2009!
First a wonderful dinner at Château Phelan Segur. The château opened its doors for a small group of us on the Arblaster and Clarke ‘primeur week’. This beautiful Saint Estephe property on the banks of the Estuary is also a family home and the sense of family is indeed strong. Owned by the Gardinier family the property is managed by Thierry Gardinier who has been the moving force behind the renovation of the Cru Bourgeois.

A second visit to Cru Bourgeois, Château Reverdi in Listrac was a completely different experience. With a group of Chinese wine enthusiasts Reverdi allowed us to really experience one of the keys signatures of Bordeaux – the blend. After tasting barrel samples of the 2009 in Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot everyone made there own 2009 Reverdi and took home their own signed sample. Tasting the final blend from the 2004 showed us that we still had a little way to go and just what a skill the Bordeaux blend is.
The Cru Bourgeois represent about 40% of the Medoc production and the results of the 2008 ‘classification’ will be announced in September. Some properties have already received confirmation of their acceptance some seem to be still on the fence as to whether to apply. Watch this space. (see my post on 1st December 2009)

Blending at Château Reverdi

February 15, 2010February 10, 2021

On the wings of a Dove.

Château Paloumey a cru bourgeois in the Haut Medoc that rare thing in Bordeaux, a property that has been completely reinvented.
Well established in the early 19th century Paloumey was a victim of Phyloxera and the economic crisis that led to it being uprooted and disappearing in the 1950s.
Never one to be afraid of a challenge , Martine Cazeneuve, purchased the house and land in 1989 and started from scratch; no vines, no cellars, no nothing!
The property is now over 30 ha in size all under sustainable agriculture and the signature dove can be found on the labels or capsules. Why a dove? A Palombe is the wild dove that migrates through the region to and from Spain and a Paloumey is the route the doves follow. Hence the name of the second wine ‘ Les Ailes de Paloumey’ the wings of a Dove.

Can you spot the dove?

Insider Tasting

with Wendy Narby

Tag: cru bourgeois